Main connector not closing/ relay for connector not working

We have a 2013 Polaris gem with a Curtis 1268-6501 ac controller. We are getting code 39 which shows that the main connector is not closing. When we start up we will hear a click (solenoids closing the system and giving the cart power) and immediately another click (solenoids opening and taking all the power away). This sometimes happens while driving on the road, we hear a click and lose all power. (Motor temp hits 60-70 Celsius) The issue is getting worse as the days go on, turning the cart off and back on used to work and now we have to let it sit for 30+ minutes to try to get the power to stay on just to get it home. does anybody have this system in a gem or another cart with a Curtis AC controller? Anyone have success getting rid of code 39? If so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
the picture of the white cylinder is our relay (sounds like the clicking comes from that) but we have read that the solenoids are in the main connector (second picture)


If you here the click contactor is pulling in. Curtis may not be seeing battery voltage and dropping back out.
Check power cable connections.
Then put a dc meter across the big posts on contactor. It should drop to zero when activated.

The white device, I don’t see another contactor.

Yes it goes from reading 88v and drops to 0 when I turn the key and hear the click. Does that mean we need to replace the main connector?

No, it seems a controller problem.
The controller is pulling in the contactor. Contactor is sending 88v to B+ on controller, test to be sure, but controller doesn’t see the voltage and drops it out.
Where did you find info on -39?

Ok so that was incorrect, when the power holds yes it drops to 0. When the code 39 comes on the voltage drops to about 8 and slowly climbs its way back to the 88 volts

https://www.hpevs.com/Site/images/pdf/troubleshooting/troubleshooting.pdf


Ok How would I test if it’s sending the 88 volts to the controller? Just volt meter on + and - when on?

Need to get real specific on what comes first.
You may not hear the click when contactor drops out.
The voltage at B+ on controller must remain @ 88v and 0v across contacts at all times contactor is engaged.
You may need to measure across the contactor coil, small wires, to know when it’s engaged.

If it drops out while there is full voltage on B+ controller, then IMO controller is bad.
If voltage drops while there is voltage at coil, then a battery issue or the contactor.
Admittedly difficult to test.

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Yes, at controller. Voltage should rise to B+ immediately with click.

do you use old contactor from the electric heater ? think they are 12volt,i can not see the label

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