That’s a tough one. Where were you before high voltage?
Ran ok?
What is B+ post? On T2 controller? Someone else would need to check their’s. I would expect low voltage before contactor turns on…Hmmmmm
Maybe controller expects more “precharge” before it will pull in contactor. Some of these things are unknown. Even by the GE engineers. 
I don’t think the T2 measures P11 voltage as the T4 does.
See if removing spoof changes B+ post voltage.
Do you have access to about a 500ohm 10w resistor?
If not, the smallest 120v lamp you can find will work.
Connected across the contactor main contacts, it will help precharge caps in controller if they are leaky.
Need to bring the B+ post over 70v for a test. I’m shooting in the dark here, that it’s even the problem.
Just got back inside. 85 degrees here and had neighbors at the bar. lol. Ok. this thing ran fine with 6 12v AGM’s. no problem. Will take the spoof off tomorrow and see what it does. It has to be something simple that I’m just not seeing, as all the elements are in place. Anyway. I’ll let you know…
My guess is that it’s a controller that’s on the edge. Everything needs to be in top shape to handle HV.
The internal caps need to be over 70v before the contactor pulls in. This is to prevent arcing and blowing fuses. Or worse.
Leaking caps will be aggravated by HV.
If it works with pre-charge, best to rebuild controller, or change caps.
Still guessing of course.
Same line of thought here. Going to try it without the spoof today. If that doesn’t work, will have the controller rebuilt. Who would you suggest is best for it.
Do you sometimes forget that not all of us are as electronically knowledgeable as you and we tap our way through this world until a kind soul(you) sometimes offers to help us cross a street? lol That being said. caps??
Caps=capacitors inside controller.
T2 controller With Spoof Without Spoof
Fuse in 96v 96v
Fuse out/Contactor in 96v 96v
Contactor out 64.7v 96v
B+ post (controller) 64.7v 96v
Before Spoof 96v n/a
After spoof-before wire 80.2 n/a
Pin 1 72.8 96v
Pin 2 96v 96v
Pin 11 96v 96v
Pin 21 96v 96v
Error Code -15 -16
Other than controller, not sure where else to go.
Thaks, Mark
This seems to be the issue. It should follow the B+ voltage minus the spoof.
I would try a precharge resistor across the contacts. A 5w or 10w 120v lamp may work for a test.
Need to bring the post contactor voltage up to >70v to clear error -15.
Oh, one other idea. I believe your spoof could be 2 x 7.5v. Are there two bumps on it or one?
If it’s the original from Ralph, only one. Jump one of the devices for a 7.5v change.
Doh! Math in my head is long gone.
96-72.8=23.2v
Spoof is bad.
Should drop 15v not 23v.
What is the history of spoof? any sparks? Is it making good connection?
Sorry for the trouble.
History of the spoof is it came from Ralph - nuff said.
connections appear to be good.
Here’s a picture of it:
Be happy to purchase a new one.
Uploading: 20190310_154758.jpg…
Send me $25. How fast do you want it?
Priority mail ok?
P54riority is ok. Add it to the 25, or inclusive?
Oh, wait. There are not two plugged together are there? A 15v and a 7.5v.
I would have sent him two.
Total $25 is fine. Check your spoof first.
no idea. the small line has two male ends. the red piece haws 2 female ends. figured they went together.
If not, I can cut a male end from the small wire and run it directly into the red piece.
I’m guessing - the red piece is 15v and the bare wire is 7.5??
If that’s the case, I can work with it.
Get me a complete picture unplugged.
Or if I can’t figure it out. Connect the whole string. Find two points that measure 15v across them.
Get rid of everything else. Remove or jumper.
just the red one was 15v. Now get the “clunk”
Progress
key on shows 100% battery and then goes to -04
Emergency brake down gives the “clunk” and display shows ooo mph.
Whe3n I press down on the accelerator I get a -77 error code and cannot find that anywhere.