Yes, you have the charger connected to 1/2 of the battery. Which is ok for bringing the low set up to match the high set. You will need to set it to 12s to charge 12 at a time.
When low one matches high, disconnect charger, connect to 24 cells. Then change charger to 24s and charge all batteries together.
Duh!!! (as I hit my forehead with the heel of my hand)
That just put this all back in perspective for me.
Low side charged to the high side. Entire pack is now at 91 volts and climbing. Have Honey Do’s tomorrow, so probably won’t get to install until next week.
Next going to study your pictures of installing that shunt.
Have a great weekend and thanks for the help. I will probably continue to charge with this external charger, unless you know a profile for the Delta Q that would work with these or have a suggestion on mounting this charger in line somehow.
Thanks again.
Have a great weekend.
Mark.
Yes, I have 98v delta-q profile.
New dq lithium chargers are $350.
The chargery is not rugged enough for on-board charging. (or dropping) 
Obviously I have older Delta Q. Using with 12Volt AGM’s.
Are the new ones plug and play? hopefully. or is this the ICL1200 that I’ll need a walk thru on to install.
Same as yours. If yours is newer than DQCP I can program it to 98v lithium.
Dqct is ok or DQCP with big black dot.
Don’t remember. I’ll pull the dash first thing tomorrow and let you know.
Cost?
That’s the good one.
Hooked up, ready to run, but not running. lol
I remember a week ago when I ran 96 volts through the cart, I heard a loud SNAP when I turned the cut off switch on. Now, I get a code -15, which is low battery. I have 96 volts at the cutoff, 96 at the fuse, 96 at the fuse output/main contactor or solenoid input and the 64 volts coming out of the main contactor. Ran the tests as called for in the service manual and believe the main contactor/solenoid is bad, so found one on ebay and ordered it. This is a 2002 car and that main contactor solenoid is listed as a 72v piece of equipment. You think it can handle the 96 volts or is a there something I should replace it with. I hate to keep blowing $100 main contactor/solenoids.
96v is pushing it, but lots of us are getting by. A 30 ohm 25 watt resistor should keep the coil from overheating. It would not fail immediately.
Code 15 isn’t a bad contactor.
right - code 15 is low, low battery. but battery is not low. lol
Anyway, I’ll play with it for a while. Still in a learning curve.
Thanks
where would I hook that resister into the circuit?
It connects in series with a coil wire.
What makes you think that the contactor is bad? Most contactor problems will throw a code.
Code 15 means that pin one on the controller is less than 69v when key is turned on.
true, and it was, but also. the black wire from the contactor vacillated between 0 -96-0 when the key was turned on and off. Service manual said that showed bad contactor. Pin 2 on the controller showed 96v.
I don’t know which wire the black is.
Checking across the two coil wires should show 96v when controller is asking for power.
If you have 96v and contactor does not energize, the coil is open. But it should throw a code.
Voltage at p1 is measured before the spoof? After the spoof it must be between 68v and 85v.
Walked away and had a drink the other day to gain a new perspective.
Here’s where I am.
96v to the fuse block and main contactor.
key on, parking brake released, gives me an error code of -15.
voltage before spoof is 96v
voltage after spoof is 80v.
Also, do not get the “clunk” when e brake is released, so thought maybe microswitdch was bad.
Tied the two microswitch wires together just to see if something would happen, but no change.Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mark
double checked; Controller is a T2
Then 11 is coil driver. I don’t know if open coil causes -15. Need B+ on 11 in any case.
Hey Dave,
Had to stop and get a total knee replacement - right knee. However am back and going to try to get this thing running.
Shows a -15 error code when I turn the key on. Get no “clunk” and obvoiously nothing goes.
Here are my voltage readings:
Fuse: 96v in and 96v out to contactor.
Contactor out: 64.7
B+ Post: 64.7v
B-4 spoof: 96v
after spoof: 80.2v
Pin 1: 72.8v
pin 2: 96v
pin 11 96v
pin 21: 96v
Hope this gives you an idea of where I can look.
Many Thanks,
Mark