HoCrap! This was your thread! (created back in Aug 17).
At 10.6k views one might think you are signing on under different names just to get some sort of record
Exactly… that’ll tell ya why I responded here, lots of interest in (as the title states) “rejuvenation” projects that it seems every older car has the same issues. Thou I believe Parking Brake Switches would take top spot.
I am just thrilled to death that you guys still hop in on these x year old threads and continue to help. Thank you!! @AssyRequired@dougl@JarJarJava
I had to replace the wheel bearings. lots of slop and noise. But like a bunch of FWD cars, it is a roller bearing that is held in with snap rings on my 2009. i actually had one from a fourwheeler that slid right in. I don’t understand if there are differences in the earlier cars, but it solved the radial runout problem for me. Pivot Works PWFWK-A01-542 Front Wheel Bearing Kit
I have one that looks exactly like this. You can almost see the big coil shaking and weakening its soldered connection as you hit every crack in the road.
It works one day then the next time you plug it in - Fritzzzztttt!!!
Get in touch with @Inwo or @LithiumGods about DeltaQ chargers. Much more advanced and durable and they can be reflashed for lithium batteries when you make that jump. LG might be a little slow to respond right now though, his house just got hammered by Hurricane Ian.
Replacing the Leaf Gen-4 battery module MONITORS with a real BMS. So I have to drill and tap M4 holes into the buss bars as I remove the old monitor modules.
Well crap, I had already lost first cell out of the 4 cells in the first module( end of the battery seen at the top of the picture) and I installed a jumper across it to bypass. But now… I noticed yesterday the 2nd cell in that half of the module was showing 3.56V when others were at 4.00V so I put a RC charger on it set to one 3.7V lithium cell and I saw something strange last night. I saw the charger showing 4.01V and figured I’d give it 30 minutes more since it’d drop a bit when the charger was removed and when I went back I saw it charging at 3.88V.
I stopped the charge and unplugged the charger then checked the battery cell voltage this morning and it was 5.65V. I think cell #2 in this module is failing too and that would mean, the original 5.5 module battery pack( S22P2 ) went to S21P2 and now S20P2.
I guess I can now remove the over voltage hack from the controller wiring but I wonder what is killing that half of that battery pack module.
I’ve got an electronics degree/background so it was observed first with the previous monitoring modules, then I checked with a DMM, then put a charger on the one cell and saw it. Verified again with a DMM and even tried a 1A charge with the RC charger on that cell and saw it stay very low.
I bypassed that whole first 1/2 module( so 20S2P charging to 4.00V per cell. Can still spin the tires on GO which makes it an attractive setup for a 2002.
I’m thinking of putting 2 of the 12V gels, from the 2008, under the seat of this 2002 and wire them in parallel to a Cig lighter outlet on front of the same rear seat bench. Also add in parallel to the 120VAC input on the rear seat bench a 12V lead acid battery charger to keep these big gels topped up. Will advertise it for parade lighting or other Aux power. The weight should help smooth out the 2002 suspension/ride.
Because I was connecting full pack power to that little screw terminal(center of the 2 cells in that half of the full battery module) I had experienced enough heating to melt the PLA plastic box I had around the connections and holding the monitoring circuit board. I would not be surprised if that kind of heating didn’t translate down to the “bag” of the cell and cause damage.
I know I killed the first cell by not putting 500ma through the whole pack to get a level charge on all the batteries in the pack. That cell must have been lower and when I ran most of the cells down to 3.4V one time, the first cell was into the 2.x volt range. It never recovered and eventually failed.
Just thinking of all the effort i’d put into splitting a module to get to 5.5 Gen 4 Leaf modules for 22S2P only to end up with 20S2P( ~5 Leaf Gen4 modules) and it still runs good.
I could not find my Klein crimper so I’m going with some closed barrel rings and my crimper for closed barrels. Maybe start doing all the criimping tonight and get the BMS on it tomorrow.
With the help from @Erniea15 and @AssyRequired I was able to get this JK BMS booted and setup on the Gen4 Leaf battery pack( 20S2P 116Ah ) today. Thanks guys!
I’ve got to make a cover for it out of some polyethylene and will try blocking just the floor opening directly infront of this battery tray. I’ve added two 12V gel batteries to the side battery trays and will add a small 2A charger wired to the 120VAC charger outlet. I’ll also add one or two 12V car cigarette lighter outlets next to the AC charger inlet on the rear seat base.
I think I am having the same -11 problem you had. I am driving and without warning the -11 code is triggered. Pumping the accelerator usually fixes the issue. What was the final fix you worked out?
For those having code -11 thrown on your display intermittently and happening while driving over bumps, it might be the 72V going to your 12V converter like mine was. Turning the key off then back on again usually fixed it until the next bump or something which wiggled the wiring bringing 72V to the 12V converter. Or maybe now and it’s something else like a throttle switch.
@jblove27 - I didn’t mean to chase you off, I just don’t believe hijacking others’ topics/threads. But fine- You got me going now. You are making me beat up grass!!!
To put your problem into proper perspective, the -11 is one of the controller safety checks it does at startup. In this case it is detecting a pedal not at zero (up) when it boots up. This keeps the car from suddenly going through the garage door when you KeyON. The error typically clears by cycling the pedal UP, then you can go (exactly what you are doing).
If you are getting this error while in motion it means the controller is losing power for some reason and causing it to reboot (finding your foot on the pedal and throwing the code.
The trick is finding out why the controller is glitching. This could be your key switch, your Key relay, bad connection anywhere in the KeySwithc circuit/ interlock wiring, or even in dougl instance, a bad connection in the DC Converter wiring. I suppose it might even be in the 72v power system(battery connection, main relay, power switch, etc), but i think it would show as other error first.
Which is an awesome explanation and all the more reason why it SHOULD HAVE BEEN in a thread with the subject like “why am I getting a -11 code on my 200x GEM”.
Thanks guys. I saw -11 mentioned earlier in the thread so posted here. Sorry didn’t mean to go off topic. I’ll start a new thread as I have a few more questions.
