I have recently converted my ford ranger to an electric car. The car runs fine, i just have one problem, when ever i start it i get error codes 3111, and 3112 from my WarP-Drive controller
3111 - 15V “A” on-board power supply went out of limits.
3112 - 15V “B” on-board power supply went out of limits.
Both errors say they are not user-serviceable and to return the controller to the manufacturer, but when we called the company they told us to clear the errors and we would be fine, and they were right, but now im looking for a more permanent solution than doing a key on-off sequence every time i want to drive the car.
if needed i can post all of the details.
Well did the 15 volt out of limit go too high of voltage or to low? If it went to low then you have a power drain issue that needs to be resolved. If to high then you have to much voltage and need to cut back. Sounds pretty easy to me.
So what are the details? Should have posted them straight away. Might not have an issue after all with the controller. Sounds like it’s doing its job properly. Did you hook every thing up properly?
I’m not sure exactly what details you would need.
I’ve checked the 12v battery and it has been between 13v and 12v when I’ve received the error, which should be with in range, and the fact that the car works once i clear the errors makes me think it’s a false error report.
[QUOTE=everett1992;7939]I’m not sure exactly what details you would need.
I’ve checked the 12v battery and it has been between 13v and 12v when I’ve received the error, which should be with in range, and the fact that the car works once i clear the errors makes me think it’s a false error report.[/QUOTE]
Do you have the “Key-On” (blue wire) and 12V constant (yellow wire) tied together? It’s possible this could cause the issue. They are not intended to be connected at the same time.
You certainly shouldn’t have to clear errors every time you want to drive! Let me know on the above, and I’ll see if we can get things working right for you!
we removed the fuel pump relay because we don’t have one anymore and put the yellow in one of the pins receiving constant power and blue in a pin that only receives power when the key is on.
Green is attached to a wire that used to lead to the starter motor, so we still need to press the clutch to start the car. (btw if you have a better suggestion id like to hear it)
i’ve noticed that if i momentarily turn the key to start ill get the errors, but if i hold the key till our contractor clicks i’m ok. thats better but still not perfect.
i have another issue, error 4111(controller cannot read voltage - return to manufacture) has popped up twice while driving, the first time i was able to fix it disconnecting the battery, main, and throttle connections, but i haven’t found anything to get it working this time. Could a low pack voltage lead to a error like that?
Could still be your battery. Can you connect a volt meter to your battery while driving and monitor your 12 volt battery output? I suspect your going below 12 volts. I had that problem and when I fixed it the problem was gone. Even tho your battery is topped off the voltage can sag below 12v easy. Mine went to around 11.8 to 11.6 on a fully charged new battery. There are other systems that use your 12 volt battery. When I removed my battery and connected directly to my 13.8 volt out DC DC converter the problems went away.
I also had a problem of a contactor just shutting off. Turned out to be a short in one of the wires to the contactor. You could be having a problem like that. Intermittent but none the less a problem. Those are the hardest to find. So you say battery main and throttle connector. I suspect you have a short in the throttle assembly. Check it out. Get full power to your system with a DC DC converter instead of just your battery. Worked for me.
I have a dc-dc installed, its just not hooked up. The car was built by Rowan University and the students decided to get power for the dc from b- and b+ terminals on the controller thinking that it would be nice if the dc-dc was only running when the car was on, and not when it was sitting, but we found out that that gave us an error.
yesterday when i was reading the manual i saw that dc-dcs had to be on the battery side of the contatcter, so now i know how to get the dc working, were you saying that it would solve the 3111, 3112 errors or the newer 4111 error.
[QUOTE=everett1992;7944]
yesterday when i was reading the manual i saw that dc-dcs had to be on the battery side of the contatcter, so now i know how to get the dc working, were you saying that it would solve the 3111, 3112 errors or the newer 4111 error.[/QUOTE]
Just to be sure - the 12V constant does have 12V on it always?
The 4111 while driving was probably not due to the DC-DC being connected post-contactor. We have had some report of this error cropping up periodically for no good reason. Our next version of control board will be much more robust on the high voltage measuring circuitry. The current version is a bit finicky. The issue you are seeing could probably be solved with revised firmware.
If you do have 12V constant really “constant”, the 3111 and 3112 could be appearing if the key-on input rises slowly (high amount of capacitance on the line would be one possibility). I’d use an oscilloscope to determine this, but I realize not everyone has access to one of those
Our “Interface Module” is very useful in diagnosing problems. Some dealers offer to rent them, i.e. sell it for full price (MSRP is $300), and refund when it comes back in good shape.
[QUOTE=everett1992;7946]how does one update the firmware?[/QUOTE]
Right now, the process is fairly “manual”, i.e. you have to e-mail requesting the firmware upgrade. We’ll need to know the serial number on the unit. The Interface Module (IM) is required to install the update.
ok thanks, you should think of adding usb input for firmware updates, or the ability to hook the controller to a pc for diagnostics instead of needing to buy/rent a tool.
[QUOTE=everett1992;7944]I have a dc-dc installed, its just not hooked up. The car was built by Rowan University and the students decided to get power for the dc from b- and b+ terminals on the controller thinking that it would be nice if the dc-dc was only running when the car was on, and not when it was sitting, but we found out that that gave us an error.
yesterday when i was reading the manual i saw that dc-dcs had to be on the battery side of the contatcter, so now i know how to get the dc working, were you saying that it would solve the 3111, 3112 errors or the newer 4111 error.[/QUOTE]
The DC DC should fix the first issue. Checking for shorts in the throttle or pot and if you can replace the throttle wires for testing purposes. Many use very thin wire and the thin wire can short easy and if it’s intermittent it will be tough to locate. That is why I suggest you just change your wires for new heavier gauge wire. I had some thin wire short out on me and caused my contactor to just close during my drive. It was intermittent and tough to figure out what and where. Once found it was an easy fix. That voltage one is very important. Your controller expects from 15 down to 11 volts and most batteries are under 13 volts so that leaves you little room for errors. A good DC DC will provide much better and more stable 13.8 Volt voltage for your controller. Stable being the key.
