Is he yours or mine? 
too lazy to look it up.
Get you care package from me yet?
Nothing scheduled going South yet. Gabe may need more cells and a case for a local sale.
Near you I guess.
Space…space
Sounds like doing the aftermarket lithium upgrade is a no brianer. How do will I being able to increase the top speed? Do you recommend the Ride 4 Fun speed kits? Thanks.
I got 16 cells and bms from David B. Last month.
Picking this out from you post 36 above because I don’t think it was answered, and I don’t want it to get lost. The experts can chime in if they missed it.
I believe that Aux battery gets refreshed/charged from the DC Converter when the car gets switched on (or perhaps from the Unswitched DC Converter?).
In any case, put a meter on it and if it is low then yes, it needs to be looked into.
Thank you . I will check.
Start with battery. What year/model Gem?
I remember, @LithiumGods Had you get them direct from me. I don’t know if you have instructions or disclaimers.
Ie.
Between cell spacing or insulation.
Kapton tape is one way.
Dc-dc converter that charges aux battery will only function up to 15s or 60 volts.
May work ok as traction battery will be below 60v most of the time. Or may need dc-dc replaced.
Charger needs reprogramming or temperature “spoofed” to charge 15 or 16s fully.
I have no info on how to do this project. I have tried to read all the posts and go from there. If you have a list of what I am supposed to do I will gladly accept the help. I ordered the 16s as I thought it would be the easiest to replace my AGM 6volts. I am not trying to build a super Gem. Just thought it was better to get out of old AGM batteries.
2017 GEM.
How far along is the build?
Cells should be insulated from one another. Top of the “cans” are very close to each other. I sometimes use sheet material but used kapton on the last one.
Then clamp cells together in an enclosure, and connect in series.
I would have asked more questions but for some reason i though Michael was helping out.
Sorry, I was just coming to you and Mike was too far to go visit. However @ djgabriel2004 has been helping me a lot. I did not know about the heat tape and I will install that this in a few mins as it has just arrived from Amazon. I connected the BMS and here is the report without the charger connected.
I will connect to the DeltaQ when I finish the heat tape install. No, I have not had the DeltaQ modified, it is set right now for AGM. 2017 charger .
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Ok, Taped up the cells and reassembled.
Plugged up the car/charger and the dash came on. Then I tested for power out of the main cables in the rear where the batteries go. Zero voltage. Unplugged the 110v power.
So I tried connecting the battery pack which are at 57.0 volts and plugged in the 110v power. (tested the 110v receptacle and extension to verify nothing stupid was happening, had 110v power to the car receptacle. ) dash came on but nothing at the batteries.
I did not turn on the BMS with the 9 volt because if the charger was working, and over the 57.0 volts by 5 volts it would turn on the BMS.
Nothing happened. Battery pack maintained 57.0 volts.
I disconnected the 110v cord and dash went out. Batteries still connected, I turned on the ignition switch and the dash came on and the SOC said about 75% charge remaining. Tried to operated forward or reverse and NO action. No relay, no noise at all.
This GEM has an additional 12v battery.
I do not have the black wire with the connector that went to I think the battery and you think is a temperature sensor connected.
The charger was connected to the old batteries and one of the AGM 6 volts did go bad.
It was charging before this but maybe this bad battery damaged the delta-q.
Thoughts?
David, I am also getting help from @ djgabriel2004 on another message. I don’t know how to combine these messages. I am not trying to keep these separate, I just am not good at using this forum. It keeps going private message. Sorry.
I have added the Kapton tape and the cells are secured in the Pelican case tight.
Looks like I have a charger problem.
Per this picture you have “Charge” and “Discharge” turned off. That will not allow the charger to work or for the car to get any power.
Change them to ON.
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@djgabriel2004 in Miami straighten me out and got me running. You are right it was off, good call. Thanks Mike
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Nice Job!
Pay no attention to the previous comment.
I just realized your assembly is in a fully protected inside a nice box.
Never Mind.
Keep an eye on the mos temperature. A sealed box is like an oven.
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Hi, sorry for reviving an old thread. Currently wiring in a JK BMS B2A24S20P, simple enough to wire, but was curious about the original Samsung BMS wiring.
Line 11 has three wires (2 to the cell 11 positive terminal and 1 on the cell 12 negative), assuming that’s for a more detailed application for their BMS? I would just run the single JK Line 11 to cell positive spade connector.
Also, the existing two black wires riveted on are also temperature sensors? Would you reuse those into the JK temp connector, or remove them and just use the new JK temp sensors placed anywhere underneath battery lid?
Thank you
Adding photos for future reference, I couldn’t find any diagrams or similar photos anywhere online.
Extra wires
Those extra wires are probably for some mid pack monitoring or voltage drop current sensing magic that the original board was doing.
Too bad that we don’t have any docs on how to get it to work.
Temp sensors
Y, cut those off and use the sensors that come with the JK.
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Do you have a source of these Samsung modules?