Installing a New (Used) Transmission

I’m just gonna install the transmission. And then when the car is on flat ground and b4 I install the motor I’m gonna pull the oil cap. If oil comes out I’ll just let it drain until it stops. If no oil comes out I’ll just add oil threw the imput shaft hole until the oil level is correct and it’s comming out the fill hole.

So I think you’re telling me that I can change my bearing to the one you have there and it will fix my leaky seal problem?!?!
If so, please give me the part number for that bearing if you can read it.
BTW - I think your plan for getting the oil right is the best way. I keep jacking mine up and filling it and then setting it flat and let the extra run out. Having the input shaft out would be easier.

I got the new Transmission in today it’s 100% better. Awesome I love it super quiet, smooth

Mr Vern: yes the Orange seal bearing is a No leak input shaft bearing. You can get this and the smaller bearing for the input shaft for $45+ shipping Rodney sells them. (Old houseboater)

I’m happy to report that I’m Very happy with the New/Used Transmission. The $350 total investment ($300 for the transmission+ $50 for input shaft bearing/seals) was a great worth while investment. On average I have been putting about 100 miles a week on my car and I was so used to how loud it had become. It was not until I drove another car that I realized how loud myn was and decided I had enough.

The Shafer brand (stock for 2013) was just very loud (high pitched whine) I did replace the input shaft bearings and they did little to nothing to quiet it down.

I am now Intrested to see if having one of the “Daina Spicer” transmissions re built or tuned to make a super smooth quiet/ smooth transmission. My question is Do you think a transmission/rear end shop could rebuild on and use any tricks to make it better then stock?

My buddy and I were able to rebuild a couple of the dana units a few years ago. Bearings and seals were available at the bearing supply outlets by matching our original parts. The hard to find parts were the metal plugs (similar to freeze plugs, but smaller). I remember having to buy several as a minimum order. I’ll be back in the garage tomorrow and will see if I can find the bearing part numbers and those metal plugs.
Only trick I know to hot rod is change the ratios and use good synthetic lube. You should be good with the factory ratios if you buy the right year tranny. As you saw though, some have much more wear than others, so do your research.

"The hard to find parts were the metal plugs (similar to freeze plugs, but smaller). I remember having to buy several as a minimum order. "

The plugs should be available at any E-Z-Go shop. That’s where I got mine.

7 bucks on Ebay

TC 25X47X6 DOUBLE LIPS METRIC OIL / DUST SEAL AB304701 LAWNBOY CRANKSHAFT SEALS

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Now that the Transmission has me happy. I’m wondering if a New bearing for the motor would make it even more quiet? Has anyone changed out a motor bearing on a GE 7 Hp? And if so any chance you would have a part number for the bearing. I would imagine that the motor bearing would have to have been super heated over and over the 6+ years of its life that a new well lubed bearing would be nice

Would you care to divulge the Seller’s eBay ID so we are aware of his/her tactics?

I will tell you his eBay ID because I’m happy with my purchase. The transmission was almost $100 cheaper than the next guy selling one. I only mentioned the difference in appearance as a tongue-in-cheek, I didn’t mean it to be a badge of shame or anything disparaging I would buy another one of these transmissions from him in a heartbeat . You can call him direct he sells lots of Gem Car parts his name is Anthony and his company is East Coast Gems (845) 591-4974

I believe the seal that comes with the new shaft you turned me on to last summer has the 7mm not the common 6. I’m going to measure again because its been a while since I dealt with it. My local suppliers didn’t have the exact match. The common ones they had did not rest far enough onto the shaft to seal because the taper was beginning right at the lip of the seal. It needed just a smidge more contact. I was able to locate it just now so I may order a couple sizes to find one that works. Do you have the bearing with the seals available. I don’t need the inner bearing as mine is still new but will buy both if they can’t be had separately. For this year I would love to get the right seal AND a bearing that has a seal to be extra certain I’m good to go.

Just to be clear. The Orange bearing Rodney is selling requires no seal. You simply replace the bearing and your done

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I must have one of these!