Hey guys,I got a eco commuter {made in china} 48 volt unit. It charges up to 51.9 volts. It has a percentage gauge on the dash. I can run it about 5 miles and it drops to 20 percent and the low voltage cut out beeps,but the pack voltage is still at 49.6 volts when I measure it with my fluke. I don’t know what kind of controller it has because it has Chinese writing. Is that a controller issue or is there a separate module for the cut out. Any help would be appreciated.
Knowing absolutely nothing about your fine machine I thought I’d apply some standard battery thinking to it and see if it applies.
How old are your batteries?
Being a 48v car, know that by the time your Volts are down to 48v your batteries are considered close to 50% State of charge. It is not good to take your batteries below this level and starts to do damage.
You measured your batteries after a load(driving around) but technically after a resting period. There is a chance they came up a bit while you went to get your meter. If you really want an eye opener, measure your pack voltage as you are driving. I bet it dips WAYYY below that 49.6 volts.
What you should also be testing is the volts of each battery. I bet you have a few that are way below the 12v/50%SOC/Danger level.
As an additional test, you should do a Load test after a full charge cycle. You may have only one battery going bad. One battery can bring down the performance of an entire pack.
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It has 4 agm batteries. 1030mca with 200 rc. after voltage cut out sounds and wait 10 minutes the batteries read as follows The whole pack is49.6 volts. batt. 1 is 12.38 batt 2 is 12.37 batt 3 is 12.41 batt 4 is 12.48. I have load tested them and all is good with that.
Batteries are 3 months old.
I’m curious as to what the pack V is at time of Low Volt Cut?
How far do they drop under load?
Measure at battery (load)
Then measure at controller (load)
There may be a loose connection somewhere along the cable path. (main switch, Fuse, Main relay, Bad lug crimp)
Got a link to the car?
Any idea what the Ah or kW is on the pack?
Picture of controller would help. Someone might recognize it, or recognize what it may be a copy of.
Anyone’s guess without blueprints, pictures, a website to see the setup, some crayon scribbles of the wires you traced on the back of a cut up carboard box…
I’ll try and get more data today. I used a temp gun but couldn’t find any hot spots. Could a failing motor be responsible. I’ll also try to get a pic of the controller.
→ And the label on the batteries
→ Maybe even the car
Is this car a recent purchase?
Batteries are 3 months old.
Or did you just swap the batteries out in this car?
Is this range drop a recent thing or has it always been a 5 mile car?
/shrug.
We don’t even know if it’s a DC or AC motor…
Sorry guys,I got busy on another project today. I got the car a couple of months ago. Put new AGM batteries in it charged it up and drove it less than a half a mile then back in my shop and painted it. Never drove it until I finished painting it a couple of weeks ago. Took it to our campground and thats when I discovered the low voltage issue. I’ll try to get a pic of the controller tomorrow. It’s hard to get at cause the seats and some panel have to come out. Not even sure if I can get to it. I searched the net but found very little on the make “ecocentre”. The body style is eco e or eco commuter. I remember seeing a tag so I’ll get a pic of that. It may have some useful info. I probably won’t be able to take it for a ride for the next few days because of rain. Thanks so much. Heres a pic of the car.
Cute! Is it Legal/plated for the street?
Are you afraid it will shrink even more?
Has a 17 digit vin but no title. Got it from UCLA. Government vehicles rarely come with a title. I just saw a ecocentre truck up for auction on govdeals.com. Same year as the car 2012.
But they can give you some other paper for DMV. You’ll just have to have it inspected where they check the vin, see if has seat belts, etc, Figure out what to classify it as.
I’ve been through that 3 times now, one with a former UCD vehicle, the other two from out of state. You might need to suggest this vehicle is a NEV or an LSV, electric . That way you don’t end up with an “off-highway use only” classification.
Don’t let them give it a GC (Golf Cart). You’re screwed if that happens, you’ll be fighting to get that re-classified as something you can get a plate for and can be on the street.
Is this one of those vehicles you by on allibaba ? Like $3k and $1500 to ship? Shows up in a crate that isn’t even big enough to hold some modern 4K HDTVs?
Those things are a riot.
I live in Illinois and the only thing they accept is a free and clear title from another state. They will not accept a certificate of origin. Or any other paperwork whatsoever. I’m 70 years old and have been round and round with them on cars,boats and especially motorcycles. If I need a title for anything I go through the state of Florida. I use Title King Express. 500 bucks and done.
I thought you might be in SoCal, being that you said the vehicle came from UCLA.
I don’t know how title works in other states, nor would I claim to. I was only talking about CA there.
Hi ibbbhead
it looks like a Flybo car FB-EV01
Is that yours ? If so what batteries are you running.
hi
no picture from google