What is all that white powder on the top of your controller and where did it come from?
Is it battery acid corrosion or aluminium oxide? Either of those is a bad sign and especially with the controller cooling vent right there next to the made connector.
Can I just pull my ground off the negative cable at the controller or from the battery pack?
The B- lug at the controller should be fine for your reference.
Dougl - I also find that power/dust/crap around the controller plug is a concern. It looks like there is more around the F connections too. I’m more curious to what the inside of the controller looks like now. It’s regrettable that these things aren’t all that water tight and they put them in such a wettable location. Just hosing the car can be a bad idea.
MikeKC - Thanks for stepping up. I think you might want to get a box ready.
Dirt dobber made themselves a nice home at some point.
I sent you a pm, but have no idea how to see if you responded. 3524949517 cell text would be easier at this point
Does the 2010 also have the 2 12V relays on the right side where one enables a buzzer of some sort and the other is a controller enable of some sort? Just wondering if since they need to stay energized for the GEM to operate, if one was failing out after a short time it might cause a no-go situation. Just a shot in the dark as I’m not looking at any schematic, just memories of others having no-go problems they isolated by swapping the relays since they are identical.
2010 most likely does have the twin relays. One activates the handbrake beep and the other activates the e-brake light. I think the e-brake light will stop the car if removed, but it does so by killing power to the contactor.
I believe in this case the contactor is still going “clunk” every time the pedal is pressed so everything is passing safety checks. (unless I am mixing symptoms up with another car?).
while I think this thread asked about if the contactor stays engaged and was not specifically answered, I think it was stated would re-engage when the pedal was depressed to try and go after 30 seconds which would mean the contactor operation was still happening. If so, then it’s unlikely one of those pair of relays is failing to hold.
@dougl - Back up around post 24~25 He went through some exercising involving the main contactor cycling on/off. It satisfied my curiosity enough to rule it out.
When I had him Key on and wait before engaging and found a no-go tells me it is probably not a bad contact/resistance issue there.
correct, I recalled that and how he described things seemed to imply the answer to the question of the contactor clunking again after the 30 second timeout.
That is correct, it repeats the same over and over. Strangest thing I have ever seen lol
Could be a bad contactor or controller - just throwing that out there as well… 
Ugh lol I really hope we get this figured out!!!
Could be a bad contactor or controller
I thought it might be the contactor also. Then he mentioned just switching on the key and waiting 30 secs before stepping on the pedal (then activating the contactor) and the power is gone.
The contactor still clunks in and out as normal.
I’m really leaning towards the controller.
@gofast67 - do you have a chance to look at the pedal V out and return V from the pedal?
Then think about popping the cover off your controller for a look. Watch what you poke at in there. I think there are a few caps in there that may have a little zip to them.
Controller is enroute to him now.
I am just waiting on controller to come in.
it should have been there by now?
Delivered
July 10, 12:06PM
Hawthorne, FL
I am on vacation, it is probably there I’m sure. Thank you again
It is here,I will swap it tomorrow and then message you the outcome.
Well I installed the controller. Stillness the same thing. CRAP