Handset wiring

My 14 pin is wired as shown.

Functions are copied from 12 pin however.
Can someone verify wiring of their 12 pin cable?


Your talking about a 12 pin data connection but showing a 23 pin main harness connection.

What controller are you trying to talk to? T1 and T2 controllers have data ports. T1 is 8 pin T2 is 12.

Download Technical Manuals for Electric Forklift, Golf Cart Controls

Look here for the controller you want to work with. Pin outs are in the info for each model controller.

Ignore the 23 pin plug. I’ll update diagram.

I’m showing the cable that came with my LX handset.
I believe it to be for EV100 LX. 14 pin. And how it connects to cat5 type plug.

I can’t reconcile the wiring from EV100 data, as the functions aren’t listed in tech data.
The functions shown are from GEN-II 12 pin.

If you can tell me which color goes to which pin of the 8 and 12 pin connectors, I can make up some cables.

Looking from the top (wire side) with the latch forward

8 pin

top row 1 blue 2 brown 3 black 4 red

bottom row 5 green 6 orange 7 grey 8 yellow

12 pin

Top row 1 blue 2 brown 3 black 4 red 5 green 6 orange

Bottom row 7 blank 8 yellow 9 grey 10 blank 11 blank 12 blank

Hope this does it for you


I’ll see if that follows what I’ve learned so far.

I believe the colors are standard. You can see the thru the clear plastic on the LX plug.

Should be the same as my picture.
Even the coil cord (and color scheme) is a standard item. I’ll order a couple.

Here is what I understand the 12 pin wiring to be!

I haven’t found a better picture of plug.

And the 8pin for your approval!

Let me know if they are wrong so I can delete them.
Don’t want to leave them if in error.
I know the 14 pin is ok, as I have it in front of me.

Thats it. Have you got the tools for making these up?


Yes it’s nothing special.:slight_smile:

It was harder to get the information and draw the picture!

Do you have the Sentry sw, also?

No At this point in time I haven’t had any need for it. I would like to have it and the cables for getting in to T3 And T4 controllers.

Put this little thought in the back of your head for the future.

When you start using the hand set and forget to enter the last entry and you pull the plug. The cart will be dead. Turn off the main switch for a few seconds and the control will reset.

May I ask a stupid Question. What are you trying to make/create?
The cat 5 plastic connector you talked about is called a RJ-45 connector it’s a common network cable connection.

He’s making up a set of cables to connect his LX Handset to his controller.

I guess he is just trying to save $ because they sell the cables. They are like $75 each and Yes that’s very steep for what your getting.

BTW; I’m in the market for a T-1 to LX handheld cable if he is making and selling them.

Yes, I’m all about saving money.

Cables should only cost $10.

The two cables would cost me as much as the handset did.

I should be able to test the 8 pin here. I’ll have to find a control with 12 pins to test the 12 pin cables.

I also plan on making the dangle to use Sentry with T1. Not sure it’s even needed. The 23 pin connector on the T1 and T2 look the same.

Have some health issues, so none of this is priority.

I’ll see if I’m successful and how much work it is.
Might make a few extra.

This is the T2 cable to Sentry. Connects to TX and RX pins in “Y” connector which are jumped to 22 & 23 in 23 pin plug.

I believe FSIP sells the cables for $39

They list them for $63.
You may get dealer pricing.

Oops my bad.

That was an Ebay price. I just looked on the FSIP site:

FSIP Part Number 41-1002-02
List Price $109.79 :eek:

Depending on how quickly you can make them I could use a cable for a T-1 right away. And if they are cheep enough then I would buy extras.

Here is a “tip” what causes the cables to go bad is when you go to remove them from the controller after programming.

I have found u end up using the wires or cable to “pull” or remove the 8 or 12 pin connector from the controller. Over time the wires break or your connection is compromised.
I have found that the plug when inserted all the way sits below the surface of the controler and you have nothing to grab onto to help pull it out once it’s plugged into the controller. If the 8 or 12 pin connector had some sort of “life line” that you could use to pull the connector out that would spair the wear and tear on the cable.
On a GEM car it’s not bad to get to the controller but on a THINK the controller is under the car and it’s a pain to get to the 12 pin connector. Both think and gem have the same issue of removing the connector