Got the dreaded Wrench symbol

The Wrench just showed up overnight. At the same time the battery box symbol shows up flashing without bars. I have a full charge and the car has been running really well.Disconnected the battery for a few minutes but no change.I also blew out the dust in the motor. Not sure what else to check as I have never got the wrench in 20 years.

It should have set a code with the wrench light on so check the codes. Also check voltage going into the motor controller (two big cables on drivers side) Should be over 76 volts when the batteries are fully charged.

I hold the Reset and turn the key on but nothing but the flashing battery box shows up. Checked the controller and have 85V. The contactor is not energizing off course. Could the cluster think that the battery is exhausted and triggering the wrench? UPDATE: After sitting for two hours the car is back to normal…go figure. It seems the wrench is a false trigger for whatever reason.

It sounds like it was throwing it’s version of a -16 (pack overvolt).
It usually happens up around 86v. You were probably riding on the edge…

IIRC, aren’t you running some sort of lifepo4 golf cart drop in replacements? Built in BMSes that aren’t user accessible? Falcon Punch batteries or something?

You may be on to something with that 16 code pack over volt. I never heard of this one, but I have not been able to access my codes when I try. And I charge the car to 86 V last night so when I was checking it today that’s when the problem started. Two hours later after I had been playing around with the car the voltage was down to 83 V and that’s when the car shows that it was back to normal… still still don’t know why I can’t access the codes. thanks for the tip.

I am using a LiPo pac that was custom made in China. It charges to 87.4V but quickly drops to 82-83V when operated for a short time.I will have to make sure the voltage drops below 86V before driving the car…I can turn on the headlights for a couple minutes.Still cannot figure out why I can’t get to the codes. The reset switch works fine.

You need a voltage spoof to run higher voltage. Cheap and easy to install.

So where do I find the spoof thingy?

inwo or lithiumgods, If your top voltage is 88 volts you will need around a 8 volt spoof. It attaches to the #1 pin on the main controller connector.

First make sure your battery is supposed to go that high. The way it drops off makes me think you are overcharging it just a bit.

Your statement #6:

86 V last night so when I was checking it today that’s when the problem started. Two hours later after I had been playing around with the car the voltage was down to 83 V

Lost 3 volts just sitting around (not running the car??).

And the one in Post 7

It charges to 87.4V but quickly drops to 82-83V when operated for a short time.

That sounds like a big voltage drop for a healthy pack to show.
What are these cells and what Volts per cell are you looking at?
Are all your cells balanced?
Are you using a BMS?

If you go back in the archives some of the guys noted that even tho the batteries they were using could go up higher (still within design specs) the packs were tired and worthless within a year when pushed that hard.

My LiPo’s are speced at 87.4V and the charger shuts off at exactly 87.4V. To solve the issue I am going to go back to an 84V charger that I have. I found out this morning that the wrench shows up at 87V and goes away at 86V so I will be safe at 84V. To be honest I noticed no mileage difference between the pack at 87V or 84V. I think the. difference is mostly a surface charge cause it goes away quickly after a short drive.Been very happy with the LIPo’s.Most of my mileage is done in the 78-80V range.At 75-76V I am looking to charge. I keep a small LED voltmeter between the seats since the cluster gage is useless. They will probably outlive my 20 year old Think.

You’re better off not fully charging lithium packs anyways.

I’ll get the same overcharge and simply turn on the headlights and flashers and the wrench goes away in about a minute and able to drive away. Only occasionally do I get the flashing Zero bars when this happens. (Two 72v BigBattery)

I cannot find a way to start a new conversation.
The green continue buttons give me a window that locks up my screen and has an audio recording that says my computer has been hacked and to call a number…not good.

Sounds like it’s time to reset your PC