Hello New Member here 
I just picked up a 2016 Gem eL XD which is coming without any rear bed system (just naked frame rails). I’m considering shortening it to make it easier to transport behind my RV (possibly on a Hyrdalift) or in a trailer.
Has anyone ever done this before? It looks pretty simple to do. I am hoping to get it to shorter than 8’ so I can carry it sideways on a Hydralift http://hydralift-usa.com/side-by-side-lift/ then build my own rear bed for it.
Cut it to the same wheelbase as a 4 passenger so you can use stock Ebrake cables.
Rodney
Great idea, but I think I would need to be closer to the two person versions. The e4 is still over 11’ with a 101" wheel base.
e2 is 103" long with 69" wheel base. That’s close but still a little long. I think I can make it work but shortening a cable if need be is very possible.
Really from what I was looking at, shortening the brake cable and brake line seem to be the only functional issues. Making new brackets or cutting and shutting the existing frame to move everything forwards doesn’t seem to be too far out of the possible.
I am picking it up today and will take a bunch of photos.
So here she is 
Nick named “Bully” as her face reminds me of a Bulldog and she will even more so once she is short and squat. 
Only one image per post 
for new users so more to follow…
I am thinking I can cut out everything between these two cross members. Line them up and then weld them together. The battery tray will need new supports but the whole tray unbolts and moves so that should be easy to move back and between the wheels. The top brackets where it attaches will need a little more fancy work and then a few extra cross members and we should be good. It will take out 43.5" from the wheel base to get me down to 8.5’ and then I am going to clip the back as short as possible after the wheels to get me under 8’ overall…
It almost looks like everything aft of the cab just bolts on. Are the main frame rails welded or bolted?
Looks like a fun project! Next step should be to go lithium so you can drop a few hundred pounds and lighten the load on your hitch mount.
Wouldn’t it have been awesome if we could just unbolt the rear sections and swap between wheel bases… Alas the main frame rails run all the way under the cabin and the majority is welded together.
Still shouldn’t be too much of an issue. I’ll likely machine solid inserts to help align where I make the cuts, bolt it together, and then go and get it welded.
I only do short distances so as much as I would love the Lithium idea it’s really hard (impossible?) for me to justify right now.
There’s probably a very good reason that frames aren’t bolted together. If you sell enough of them, one will come unbolted.
I get it on the lithium. I was lucky that mine needed batteries when I bought it. Lithium ended up being about the same price as lead but could easily have been done for less had I not hot rodded it.
Yeah, the way they built the frame makes a lot of sense for strength and manufacturing processes. Just makes it a little harder for silly people like me to modify it. Not that much though…
Do you have a 2016 Gem also? I am very interested in being able to increase the top speed if I can. There’s a lot of 35mph roads that it would be great to be able to keep up with traffic on.
Is there a list of fault codes anywhere? This one has the wrench warning showing on the dash. I am wondering if it is just something simple like not having rear lights connected or something more.
Also is there any where to get parts? I need the rear lights and may want to replace the front bumper/skirt on as it is cracked where it joins the side panel.
Is this a classic model with GE controller?
Mine is a 2002. I’m not sure if your 2016 is the same as Grant’s 2013. If so, he’s the guy that can help you
Inwo, I am not sure. How do I check/find out?
I believe 2016 was a new model year. It’s the new body style, but I am not sure what components it shares with the previous platforms.
Following with interest as I’ve a 2015 E2 which will need new batteries. Has a T5 controller which I’ve been told cannot be reprogrammed for higher speed. Also curious about the lithium upgrade.
@Jag73e
The magic magnet removes the speed limit on all cars with dc motors a speed sensors.
Taking the lead out will make it fly.
Getting a junkyard Chevy Volt is the best bang for the buck.
Or if budget permits, I have an extra 50 mile Bolt module.
Grant should be posting soon. In the middle of his Bolt conversion.
Are there details anywhere on how to get one of these magnets and where to place it? I looked and saw talk of it, but no details on how to still get them? Thank you.
