The problem is the display doesn’t illuminate the last two bars to indicate full. This is when fully charged with new AGM’s.
This car is probably had flooded batteries in its past, which would have had a higher finish charge voltage and possibly illuminating the last two bars?
During the equalization stage, the AGM batteries are as high as they will get, and measure 14.7V each.
I’m wondering if there’s an adjustable display setting that may be incorrectly set for flooded batteries (expecting a higher voltage), causing my last two bars to not illuminate with AGM’s
I have browsed the user and service manuals with no luck.
The problem is different than I thought! Sorry for my confusion on this…
Thanks Inwo & Old_Houseboater, for your responses about the procedure above.
It seems I have broken the vehicle’s ability to see charging, I assumed it was a voltage reference. Perhaps it leverages the QuiQ or controller (where QuickQ tied into b- circuit) to count amp-hours?
What I did:
I changed the battery charger from a QuiQ, to instead use two ProSport20 Chargers. I did this because each ProSport Charger manages three batteries (each battery independently). As opposed to series charging all. Since each battery has its own +and- wires from the charger, the car can’t sense current flowing to each battery and sum it up for display…
The drive inhibit feature was previously controlled by a green wire from a relay inside the QuiQ. I replaced it with a proper external relay and it inhibits as it should (only when AC is present).
Following the charger change, as the vehicle was driven, it continued to lose bars as expected. The two missing bars I originally noticed probably indicated the last known charge status just prior to the charger changes I made. As the car was driven further, the bars dropped as expected, relative to the drive.
My QickQ/DeltaQ documentation showed the white wire from stock charger was simply a temperature sensor wire, so the charger end was terminated, but still routed to the orange/blue as stock, which is routed to a thermister lug on pack(-). The same pack(-) lug has another Orange/black wire that goes to the fuse block. It was left connected for now.
Question#1: I’m guessing at this point, that where the stock charger (-) tied into the pack at controller B-, it leveraged an internal shunt in the controller to count amps for the display. Can anyone confirm?
Question#2: My batteries are full, but discharge displays that it is empty. If I keep driving (with known charged batteries) will the stock circuit shut down the cars controller anyway? I suspect it is designed to not shutdown and strand a driver if there’s enough voltage to operate the controller. If I know for sure that it won’t shutdown I can install my own Amp/hr or Watt/hr meter and be done.