The converter for the instrument cluster is built into the cluster unless Bob the cluster guy or someone else bypassed the internal dc/dc converter and installed an external one. Either way it has nothing to do with the other converters.
Check the dc/dc converters under the hood like AssyRequired said.
If it’s like the GEM T1 → T2 conversion, the main plug was a 1:1 swap. the display needed an adapter going from ~8pin to 12pin (guessing on the pin numbers). Gem offered a kit for this. You could probably build one easily.
If I recall, you just swap and go. There’s performance tuning you can do but it should just work. You’d probably want to remove the 25mph limit. Programming cable is cheap. Does anyone know if the GEM T1 setup will work with Think D1? Sentry software the same?
I need to replace mine I don’t want to mess with the Samsung pack
How about just replacing the originals lead acid batteries by lithium one.
There is pack of lithium for as much as 250$-300$ each do I need to do something else? To the controller or charger or it’s a direct replacement ?
All IMHO advertizement:
I won’t take the time to go through all the specs or to check them out to see if they are accurate. I’ve done this for many, but it’s not my job to keep members from messing up.
Oh wait, maybe it is!
I’m sure someone will take the time to critique them.
As a general rule bms do not play well in series. Many even tell you to use only 3 or 4 in series.
In any case 6 chargers are recommended as the only way to keep them all charged.
Peak amps important. For a Gem it has been found that 350 amps peak and 200 continuous will keep trips to a minimum.
Chemistry is something to think about. LFP is no longer used in vehicles. Even some carts are using NMC as oem battery.
To the best of my knowledge most all lifepo4 are made in China. Make sure that any lfp battery you get can have a cell replaced with early failure.
Warranty, some of the big names making drop in batteries are gone. The advertise and sell a bunch then are gone before claims come in.
As you can see, I’m biased.
Anyone else want to jump in? Friends don’t let friends buy LFP 12v batteries for Gem.
I don’t offer anything at the $1500 price point, but @Erniea15 has a lot of cars running Chevy Volt batteries. About 50ah or 100ah double set.
I think this might be an option and be close to that price point. I haven’t kept track of Volt module pricing…
Can you live with 20 mile range if cost is low? Single 22s Volt battery. @MikeKC also builds batteries and may have scored some low cost options.
IMO you just can’t beat the SDI-22s, but of course thats my opinion. That’s what I offer.
I’m still running them in my car. Was supposed to be a temporary pack until I got my Tesla pack squared away. Here we are 18 months later and I’m still using them. They run great! I have another long-term battery option in my garage but the range with he Volts has met my needs so far… and it’s a case of - if ain’t broke so don’t fix it.
This setup probably cost me $850. $600 for batteries, $150 for BMS, $100 in cables.
The problem with the Volt packs you’ll find out there are they’re definitely aging. The last pack I bought from a salvage yard was DOA and I’m in the middle of a small claims case to get my $$ back. Assume you’ll have some loss in almost every pack you buy… one full pack I had a couple of dead cells. Also, to get a cheaper price, you’ll want to buy a full pack and then break it down. You’ll have enough batteries to power 2 cars at 100ah (assuming they’re all good)… so you’ll need to find someone to go in on it with you.
Other problem I ran into with the Volts and in the classic GEMs with the T2 controllers, I could never get them to go over 94v so I wasn’t getting the full range of the pack. I guess I could have cut out some cells to 22 but just stopped charging at 94v.
Volt packs are a gamble at this point. I got lucky with the ones in my car. I was never intending them to be a long-term solution. I’ve installed a couple of the SDI-22 packs and man… those are a simple install. It will most likely be the last pack you have to install.
We have multiple threads on here with folks trying to use those drop in packs and it always seems like the same story. They just don’t work because of the current draw. follow @Inwo’s advice… he knows what he’s talking about.
I’m still running the first volt pack ever put in a gem that we know of. I bought @Inwo 's test mule back in 2020, the 10 'eL.
2p22s charge to 88v. 120Ah capacity iirc. Hasnt given me any problems yet and its going on 5-6 years in the vehicle now i think. I ran this vehicle as my daily driver for a bit over 2 years until i changed jobs and now have a 35 mile highway commute so i had to go buy a real car.
The volt packs are a bit bulky and on the heavier side of the lithium options, but they just keep working.
That was a special pack from a new car IIRC.
A 44 cell block 16+16+12. I believe that would fit nicely in a think.
Quite a bit of work involved splitting electrically at 22s and connecting two halves cell to cell. I don’t recall if I did it with harnesses or hardwired under cover.
If one of you guys get a late model, save the 44s block for one. Looks like 51.8ah
It’s no New Samsung but should be a little less money…
Only one per battery I Think. (pun)
For 2017, the Volt gets a 20-percent boost in battery capacity, up to 18.4 kWh. Despite that, the battery pack is actually 20 pounds lighter than before! (Viva technology.) These improvements plus plenty of other engineering tweaks result in a huge, 40-percent improvement on EV range compared to the outgoing Volt, offering up to 53 miles on a charge.
Ok I can see the problem now I’ll try to get more information about volt and Samsung batteries.
I’m not sure to be able to do this without professional help (Regarding all the comments )
If you have more information for this setting