Starting a new thread at the recommendation from another member.
I received the error code two days ago shortly after climbing up a steep hill to our community mailbox. Turning the key off and back on got rid of the error and I was able to drive home. Entire trip was about 2 miles
I also went out for a short test drive yesterday (about 1.5 miles) and the car drove fine although I didn’t step on the gas too hard (but still maintained speed about 20 - 24mph)
Really want to know if this means the car will die soon or if it was a temporary thing due to the steep climb ( I admit that my foot was heavy on the pedal) and if there is a way to test.
66 could mean a lot of things, but just some comments on the motor and gears …
You have a “short GE” 5hp motor. Don’t feel bad for it if it’s fried, they are worthless and weak. Not worth the cost to rebuild. Rodney has good rebuilds of better motors available for reasonable prices.
00249 is a 10.35:1 gearbox. It’s a screamer. Great box.
Can you grab a picture of the label on the controller? Follow the big wires from the motor to find it.
@Old_Houseboater - I think the consensus is that my “short” motor sucks and needs to be replaced regardless of whether this error code 66 was a fluke or not.
Do you have any “long” motors for sale?
I think the T3 at the end of the catalog# indicates that I have a T3 controller which apparently also sucks. Do you sell T4 controllers too? If hard to find, would I be able to use your motor with a T3 controller until I’m able to find a T4? Thank you.
Motor- It’s not that it sucks, but you could do better. Especially since you have an e4 and also converted to Lithium. Depending on your budget your next step up would be a GE Long or a R4F Blue motor.
T3- Also, not that it sucks, but it has its limits. When they go bad people just go for a T4. I remember it was a reasonable swap that might be a few wiring jumps. I’d have to review.
If your car still works, just keep an eye out / search for the deals.
If your happy with 32 mph a ;long 5 will amaze you. A T3 with a long 5 is a perfectly good combination. If you have an E4 with a 10.35 and tires no larger than 21 inches in diameter your in good shape. Nothing kills performance and motors, than tires that are too big.
A word on T3s. T4s are better however not worth changing out for the average owner. My 2005 2 seater with a Raptor motor and T3 does 37 with a T4 40 (GPS). Both are comfortable at 35 and range is reasonable. It’s in the programming.
I just got done testing a super 5hp long $300 plus shipping
Thanks for the info. I primarily use my gem as a golf cart and to drive to the mailbox and back. Haven’t even renewed my tabs for street use.
One question/concern I have though since it’s not yet clear exactly why this error happened: if it’s the controller that’s faulty, could it end up causing any damage to the replacement motor?
Let me know where to send the payment to including delivery. My zipcode 99224.
Also, what would the installation look like? Any special tools needed to install and/or test?
I received the long motor I purchased from Rodney today and started the replacement.
I was following the instructions from videos I found online, and they both mention a rubber plug that I need to pull from the existing motor and insert in the new one.
I’m seeing no such “plug” in my motor although I see residues of what looks like burnt/melted rubber.
The long motor from Rodney seems to have the same rubber type material in the slot - just a newer coat. Am I set, or does this indicate the rubber “plug” has melted away and I need to find a replacement before I can install the new motor? Appreciate the help.
I may have just had a newbie moment. The “rubber plug” looked and was shaped a bit differently than what I was expecting. (Really wish the ride-4-fun video had better resolution)
It feels more like a black silicone material, and I see that Rodney’s motor has the same type of material pre-applied, so I think I’m good without reusing what I pulled from the original motor.
Please somebody speak up if I’m wrong! I’ll hold off on driving the car.
I need to understand which wire goes where as the wires coming out of the motor aren’t color coded. The two red wires are from the replacement motor and need to be connected to the male plug that contains a black and a gray wire.
I can make an educated guess based on how the wires come out of the original motor but want to play it safe.
are those motor temperature sensor wires? There was just a post on a 2017(?) in which the connector was yanked off the wires and it was asked how they go back together. If it is the temp sensor, the later model one was a thermistor(resistor which changes value based on temp) and so it made no difference which way it was wired. YMMV
all my motors are shipped with new rubber plug installed and splines greased.
you have to cut the plug of the lead and strip and attach to the connectors provided, Alternately you can jumper the wires in the plug and your all done. that feature is not needed.
