So my Friend bought a 2001 E825 for $1000.
He wanted to get into the Gem game and that’s all he had so I made the mistake of telling him if he bought it I would get it going for him. So here is what I’m dealing with.
The car has a T-2 and it has a -66 code. So with out doing any testing I tell him it needs a new controller. So I buy a rebuilt T-2 from a trusted member here on the fourm I’m sure the controller is good. well I install the new controller and I still have the dreaded -66.
While installing the controller I noticed that the bolts that hold the motor in were pretty rounded letting me know the stock 3 hp motor Has been in or out of the car. And advice on what I should check next.
Never heard of -90.
From description it may be a ground fault.
With main power off check P1 to ground. Both harness and controller.
I would assume it should be 1meg or higher. I have a T1 here I can try.
Could someone field wires and check error code for Grant?
Well it turns out the -66 was from a SMOKED motor.
Clue #1 the car did not push as it should have
Clue #2 when I un hooked the field wires I got a completely different code -90 (if the controller was indeed blown up it would have remained -66) not changed from -66 to -90
Clue #3 The smell of this motor was Burnt and nasty.
So I threw a motor I had laying around in the car and Boom like that. She is twinning and driving.
And here is a pic of this Gawd dam Piece of CRAP!! Man I Hate these cars! It’s like everything is designed it be hard to work on and adjust or replace.
Any problem with fitment of the later model 5hp short motor?
You didn’t think this car was just gonna let me thrown in a new motor. Well that would be way to simple. Of corse the shock was in the way I had to do the relocate the shock trick. Here is a pic of how this cars shock mount location gets in the way.
Thats a long 5. That is one tough motor. I run one in my 4 seater. 36 Mph on 72 volts and 42 on 84 volts. Runs cooler on 84. I just moved the shock to the outside of the mount. couple of 12 MM bolts and spacers.12 bucks and 30 minutes.
The short 5 was a 2002/2004 unit which was better than the 3 but would not take any upgrade abuse. The long 5 is a tough puppy. loves 84 volts. Only short coming was developing vibration which required changing out the coupling on the end of the motor. Fit the earlier models by moving the shock out side of the mounting bracket. I used this motor on 4 rebuilds and currently run one on my 2000 4 passenger. I took off a RFF 7.5 just to see how far I could push an old 5. I have a year on it and the RFF is gathering dust.
I have a few more questions related to the 3 DC motors I have lying around here, but I’ll take those to another thread or PM as to not completely hijack Grant’s thread.
Feel free to motor talk away we already figured out what the -66 code was. Feel free to motor taco away we already figured out what the -66 code was. I do find it interesting to talk about the differences from year to year
