Good evening, I have a problem with my gem2 2006 car.
Ignition switch 65 appears when I turn on the ignition switch. I have checked the control unit and the solenoid and it is working. Is there anything else I need to check to determine the fault? Thank you very much, any information is valuable.
Solenoid should not be working with E-65. Disconnect coil wire or P17 at controller to see if error code changes and solenoid drops out.
65 - contactor coil current high - inspect contactor and controller.
But you might have know that since you knew enough to look at your Main Contactor.
I find it curious that it is throwing the code as soon as you Key ON. Usually the MC is not triggered until you press the pedal.
You say you checked the control unit and the solenoid and they are working?
Can you describe the process in how you checked and determined this?
As Inwo described above- Disconnect one of the wires off the solenoid and see if the code changes.
If they already have the e-brake released then when they turn the key it will throw the contactor so maybe this is why it’s throwing the code when they turn the key?
I know the early cars hit the contactor at key on, but my 09 will not until you press the pedal. It’ll even release it if there is no movement after 10(?) seconds. Then hit it again on pedal press.
I’m not sure when this logic changed, but always have assumed it was with wiring change in 05.
It is possible the controller is looking ahead at the contactor and is detecting a shorted coil and throwing the code.
Thank you very much for your advice. I disconnected the cable of the solenoid P17 and when I press the throttle the same code appears again. Any other idea?
I visited a specialist electronics repair shop and the technician after checking the controler and the solenoid told me that they work well. I do not know if this is true of course!
I also tried to start the car with the parking brake initially raised and then release it. When I turn on the main switch, the sound of the handbrake is heard, and when I turn on the ignition, the sound stops.
It seems controller is bad.
Solenoid does pull in or does not pull in?
How did symptoms begin? When working on car?
a specialist electronics repair shop
Was this a Cart Shop? Or does the shop repair toasters and iPods?
I seriously doubt a general “Electronic Technician” has the proper bench test rig or actually took the time to hook up a 15 year old controller to test it’s functions properly. A clue would be how he described his results. Did he say “It is fine” or "It is working? Or rather “I installed it in a cart much like yours and drove it around the block without issues”.
Even a Pro cart shop in my area didn’t even take the time to a look at a controller I took in for a check. He just sniffed it and said it was bad. I don’t go to that shop any more.
If your guy worked at a shop that specialized in forklifts, scissor lifts, commercial electric equipment, and service carts I’d say he had a chance.
Your handbrake/buzzer description sounds accurate.
Does it wait to throw a -65 until you Key ON and drop the brake?
Just for fun, Press on the Accel pedal a bit then switch Key ON. It should throw a -11.
Again echo Inwo’s thoughts above^^.
With MC disconnected it should no longer throw a -65. Make sure you power down to reset and not seeing residual memory of the code.
What is your history of this car?
I tested the solenoid on another 72 volt vehicle and it worked normally.
I recently bought the car from a friend who had it in a warehouse out of order for several years. The batteries have been replaced with new ones
Do you think I should buy a remanufactured controller?
(Given the lack of further input or response to questions)
Yes.
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Take two. They’re small.
LOL 
Still trying to recover my smell from when I got COVID so I don’t have that skill
Hate to say it but there is validity in that technique. The “magic smoke” from silicon electronic components is quite distinct. I smelled it when my controller blew due to the pothole but this 2nd controller which blew the cover off did not smell of the “magic smoke” and sure enough it looks like only one of the primary drive capacitors failed.
Yeah, I agree. I know that smell too. It had none.
I should have provided a bit of background when using that story as a reference.
This was on my neighbor’s EzGo. I was upgrading all of his batt cables and when I go to his motor I was surprised there was a little “click” when attaching one of the A cables (Not sure why A would have had power on it). When I got done it would only go fwd about a foot. Backward was fine. I more/less wanted him to plug it into his Curtis programmer to see if there was a code or something. He wanted to sell me a controller.
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How did it smell?
.
.
.
I didn’t stick around long enough but I’m sure it came in a foil bag that puffed out a cloud that smelled of “New Electronic Ions in here” along with a little mystery bag of non-edible contents.
with the solenoid disconnected the two coil cables (small) again when I press the accelerator the code 65 is displayed