Engine vibration

Remove engine and replaced tach magnet and connection. Replaced the rubber engine shaft spacer. Runs great but if I let off accelerator at 25mph get sort of a vibration noise. I’ll check bolt tightness tomorrow.
Any suggestions after that

Rubber bumper…fixed it

I’m confused.
In your first text (3 days ago) you said you replaced the rubber engine shaft spacer.

Yes, that is always the first Go-to with the symptoms you posted.
In general, if you still have vibration on decel, you may be looking at excessive spline/coupler wear and in need of a new input shaft next.

But then you came back and said you had to replace it again and now it’s fixed? Did you use a different bumper?

BTW- It is actually a good idea to also apply a dap of assembly paste on the splines before assembly.

Ok…made an inaccurate post so deleted it. Few years ago I bought some bumpers that had the same edge surrated to match the spline cup on the differential. I had forgot that I used one before and had the same noisy result. Rather than throwing it out i saved it and in error used it on this project…with the exact same results. Went down to the local GEM dealer and got a OEM replacement and all is good again.
When I held both bumpers up together the serrated one was noticeably thinner. Just passing on my experiences.

I think I remember a post years ago about someone suggesting placing a dime behind the bumper. Perhaps it was this product.
Anyone heard of this

I’m still trying to figure out if it’s a vibration OR a noise…

This post has been a valuable lesson on getting all your ducks in a row before posting. Sorry to all…won’t happen again.
To answer the question 90% noise 10% vibration

I’ve seen similar behavior with the thinner Club-Cart “toothed” bumpers in certain situations. Sometimes they have issues right off, other times it takes 30-40 miles. Once in a while they worked about as well as the heavier Polaris smooth bumper.

My lot sample of 8 or 9 wasn’t big enough to pin it down to a particular set of conditions I could have repeatable results. Amount of wear obviously did play a part, such as how long the differential input shaft was / how deep it went into the collet on the motor or how much backlash (how tight the spline fitment was), bearing play, etc But which ones, I can’t say. A few times a motor or input shaft was changed, Once it made no difference, old motor - old shaft - new club cart bumper, same as old motor - new shaft - another new bumper, same as new motor - same new shaft - yet another new cc bumper. until I put a polaris bumper in, then it finally shut up …

/shrug

Good grease usually helped, Too much and it could hydraulic the pair and either the motor end bearing or the input bearing could take a hit.

Club-cart bumper:

Polaris OEM bumper:

@Old_Houseboater once mentioned you can use a dime, I never did try that,

The piece you call the “Club Car” bumper is actually for a 10 spline set up.

It can also be used in a 19 spline equipped configuration. You cannot use the smooth in a 10 spline configuration. Noise/vibration comes when the shaft and coupling splines are worn out. You can get by with one spline worn and one good spline with a new bumper… If both splines are worn you cant win. Adding a dime is an iffy way to get a few quiet miles but you take a chance of taking out the small bearing on the end of the input shaft. If you think a dime is good how about a penny. A penny is almost guaranteed to burn out the small bearing. how harmful is that.? Broken pieces of bearing just don’t fit between gear teeth. It makes GLORIOUS destructive sounds though. I have some replacement gear boxes in stock.