Clacking noise around 9mph when decelerating

Purchased a 2005 e2 last month. Original batteries were shot. Installed new gel cell batteries and took the cart for a drive. Everything was fine until I lifted off the accelerator and the car started to slow down. The clacking noise from the front started around 9 to 10 mph. It only makes this sound when decelerating. The local golf cart expert said it is related to the regeneration braking which I suspected. The noise goes away below 9mph and the regen braking seems to work properly. He suggested disconnecting the the regen circuit but was not sure how to do in on the GEM. Does anyone have any suggestions. We did change the differential oil and used 85/90 hypoid oil. That did nothing to quiet the clatter. Thanks for listening Mike

Old houseboat or Grant will know.
It might be rubber damper in motor coupling.

I have a 2005 also and I’d like to disconnect the regen. I don’t like too much.

Troy Hoggard’s iPhone

If the noise/vibrations only happen when you come off the gas them most likely it’s the input shaft or the rubber bumper or both. Rubber bumper issues usually makes a noise when you step on the gas you here a clunk as the motor runs into the shaft and it’s a metal to metal contact clunk.

Imput shaft issues can be as simple as replacing the berrings on the input shaft or the Splines on the input are no good and it’s creating slack that is causing the vibration/noise.

Sorry to say but your going to have to remove the motor and take out the input shaft to get to the bottom of it.

Worst case you will need a new input shaft $200 that would include new berrings and the new oil seal and bumper.

Best case senario you just replace the rubber bumper $5 part.

Most of the time these noise and vibrations get worse and eventually the splines on the motor get real messed up so I recommend you R&R the motor and see what’s going on.

Report back

The noise doesn’t occur on acceleration only when lifting off the throttle and only when dropping from 10 mph to 9 mph. . Then it disappears and regen is now active .It does not seem to be metallic but I can best describe it as a chatter or shutter. When I travel below 9 mph on the street and lift off the throttle no noise just nice regen braking. Is there a way to disable the regen function to see if that helps eliminate the noise. The cart has almost 9000 miles but has been sitting for almost 2 years. The original owner said it’s always made that noise so he just ignored it. Is there a service manual available on disc for me to reference. Not sure I understand the function of the rubber bumper and where it is located. Does it fit on the motor shaft and act as a damper between the drive gear and the driven fear. Thanks for your help Mike

I’m 99% sure it’s you input shaft.

Thank you for the information. I have watched your video a few times which was very informative. If I understand it correctly I can remove the input shaft and bearings after removing the motor. I would not need to remove the transmission from the cart.
Do you have a recommended source for these parts? I would first order the rubber bumper, c-clip and both bearings. Then start the dissembly once they arrive. If I then find I need the input shaft I would order it at that time. Mike

Well once you remove the motor you can or could see the splines on the input shaft. If they are bad or worn you need a input shaft. I have a brand new complete imput shaft kit if you need one. That’s shaft, berrings
New oil seal and rubber bumper. E mail me for details

If it’s just the bearings you can get them on Amazon
Same go’s for the rubber motor bumper.

You don’t need a c clip they are re usable

Replace the rubber bumper in the end of the motor shaft. Add a dime for a shim behiund the bumper when you put it in the end of the motor.

Why do this? IT makes up for some of the wear on the splines and the coupler. and usually helps to reduce “lift throttle” rumble.

Note. If you over do the shimming the back of the motor will get too hot and the magnet will ment

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Thanks. I will start on the motor removal process this week. Where do I find correct part numbers for bearings, seals and rubber bumper so I ca check availability on amazon. Polaris only shows parts back to 2007. Are the 2005 part numbers the same.

on 2005 i think you have gear 10,35
you can count how many teeth on input shaft if its 27
on 2007 and 2008 its only 21

yes bearing and bumper are same
but you dont have seals on 2005 you have bearing with seal 2RS
if you buy new input shaft it come with seal

Great, thanks I will try that first before spending $ for all new parts. Where can I purchase the rubber bumper. Don’t see it listed anywhere. Do you have a part number I can reference? Thank you.

Polaris number 5414407 bumper

Thanks, will place order for it today.

My last cart did the same thing. I replaced the motor bumper and it was much better.

Troy Hoggard’s iPhone

I will be down in my shop in a few hrs. I will post some photos of a worn input shaft vs the new one that I have along with the part numbers for the rubber bumper and the input shaft bearing.

If you plan on keeping this gem I would recommend upgrading to the New Input shaft. The reason is the New input shafts have a extra piece of metal (it’s a shoulder) that a external oil seal rides on. This oil seal holds back the oil in the transmission and lets the bearing only have to do 1 job “work as a Bearing” the Original Bearings have to do 2 jobs hold back oil and work as a bearing. They don’t hold back the oil after time and oil seeps into your motor and eventually causes issues. The new input shaft addresses this issue. The new shaft uses open bearings NOT sealed bearings because with the new shaft kit uses a external oil seal that holds back the oil NOT & Dosent rely on the bearing. So in short you can fix it the cheep way (new bearings ) & cross your fingers OR you can throw $200 at it and be done with it. Just depends on what your time is worth. Example I had a leaky input shaft and I replaced it no less then 2 times b4 Rodney turned me on to the New input shaft kit. After throwing one in my leak and noise and vibration was gone. I have found that most transmission issues are input shaft related. I guess that’s the part that takes all the abuse and that’s the part in the transmission that fails. Good thing it’s a fairly quick replacement.

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It isn’t a discrete circuit, but set in programming.
Do you have access to programmer?
Another circuit is tied to braking. That is not usually objectionable.

Grant, does the MM1/2 reduce regen?

Here is a side by side of a New input shaft (left side)
And old input shaft (right side)

Notice the extra bit of shaft at the top under the splines this is what the oil seal rises on

You can also see the input shaft in the Right has the typical spline damage. This guys cart that I took this shaft out of had a pretty good vibration when you let off the gas. Evething was fine while on the gas.

The bearings you will need are
KOYO 6203

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