I’m considering buying a 2002 Gem but I’ve been reading this forum and see a number of warnings regarding ride, brakes, and steering. I understand this when compared to newer models but how do the early models compare to a traditional golf cart (EZ Go or Club Car)? I live in a senior community with a 25 mph speed limit, slower on cart paths. But to go shopping outside the community, I need a California licensed cart to cross a major street. So I’m asking if this early Gem is an acceptable alternative to a traditional golf cart and are the warnings compared to a small car like the Leaf? Or is it better to keep searching for a street legal golf cart? My budget is limited so a newer Gem is not an option for me. Thank you for any guidance you can offer. As a side note, the Gem I’m looking at needs batteries so I’m unable to test drive it and see for myself. At $2,000 it seems like it might be worth it but not from what I’m reading here.
In my opinion for the $5k , if lucky, that you will invest in this non- running gem. Find a running 2005+ for the same money.
The warnings on here doesn’t mean an older gem isn’t better than a golf cart. Only that if non-running it will cost more than a newer running model.
As we speak, I’m helping a new owner get his 2002 fixed up. He is over $10k in upgrades and no end in sight.
If you don’t have a new gem car to compare to, you will be blissfully unaware of how much better they are. My family had an 02 about 10 years ago and from my memory, I don’t really remember it being better than my 08, although I’m sure it is. If you’re going to compare it to a real automobile, you will be disappointed, if you expect a go cart/ golf cart you should be happy enough. They have stiff suspension, hard brakes and heavy steering. If your not driving on roads that look like they should’ve been paved decades ago, they should be tolerable for you to drive. My advice is go for a newer one if you can, if not the older ones will be fine.
There are no newer models in my area. Most of the early models are going for around $7,000. I’m thinking new gel batteries and an upgraded charger for less than $5K total. What upgrades have taken that car over $10,000? Are these upgrades or repairs necessary to use the car?
Some yes, some no. Batteries, disc brakes, new controller, don’t know about motor yet.
Fixing the rear arms, wheels.
Most of the money was in a Goliath battery. Your $5k should get it running.
@png - Curious. Where is your area?
I’m in Southern California, south Orange County. There seem to be plenty of 2000-2003 Gems available and I’ve found one or two newer 2-seaters but even those are out of my budget. I was actually just looking for a street legal golf cart when a friend offered their Gem but with no batteries. I’m planning on taking it to Monster Carts in Costa Mesa to install gel batteries and a DeltaQ charger. My thanks to all who replied here. I can see this forum will be a helpful resource going forward with this car.
From a guy that had a 2000 that probably dumped 10k into it… The costs start adding up if you’re hill climbing and start going down the lithium path. If you’re on level ground, ok with a top speed of around 32mph, and pretty much keep it stock, it will be a fine upgrade from a golf cart. It’s just the pre-2005 aren’t the best for “hot rodding”. That’s when it becomes a money-pit.
On the golf cart front, I made an ezgo street legal in San Diego and was surprised on how easy it was. You basically have to have the vin verified and just get a title. There’s no inspection to validate that you have blinkers, mirror, windshield, etc. That said, even golf carts are going for crazy prices these days.
Ask them how much they want to weld reinforcements on the rear axle / trailing suspension. Everything built from 99-04 is known for cracking where the shocks attach.
The steering column on those same years is all held up by a single weld about an inch long joining two pieces of 18 ga steel. Horrible weak point, not as well known for cracking, but it happens. When it does, the steering wheel, pod and column end up in your lap (ask me how I know…)
If the vehicle has the original shocks, it’s likely that the rubber bushings are shot. You can spring for new shocks, jam some pipes in there, or try to make your own bushing. Never really did any off the shelf press in bushings. New shocks are around $250 per pair.
Suspension bushings are probably also getting thin on a cart that age from a hot climate where you are. There are 7 total on the 99-04 (4 front, 3 rear), they aren’t that expensive, like $15 each, but going to need a machine shop to do it. I couldn’t budge them with a 10-ton press, and the front arms are cast, so hitting them with a torch could crack them.
If you don’t fix worn front shocks and suspension bushings, and then put a good alignment on it, which, BTW only has a toe adjustment, the archaic single arm front suspension will throw your camber out and will murder your tires in record time.
Hung up or dragging brakes are not uncommon. Irony is, they don’t stop well.
The stock motor is anemic and it doesn’t like being run much over it’s rated max RPM. Not a very durable motor. Be leery of high hours / high mileage carts. Motor goes bad, typically not worth repairing, replacement with new performance motor from R$F is about $850.
Motor controller will be 20-years old at this point, it’s not a bad design, it was used in thousands+ of forklifts, but certain components in there are getting old. If you let the blue smoke out, FSIP is gonna want around 4-5 bills to fix it.
Most 99-04 are going to be maintenance hungry at this point. Just try to keep that in mind, especially if your paying someone to do the work.
Sounds like you are in my neck of the woods. If patient you can find them.
Are you looking for a 2 or four seat?
I just spied what looks like a nice project car today that I should pass on because I have too much going on at the moment.
Did you commit to your early car purchase yet?
We want a 4 seat, though we’d settle for a 2 seat if it was a good enough deal. While not absolutely committed to this purchase, it’s from a friend and I wouldn’t want to back out without good reason. I will look at the welds noted here and other points mentioned. Definitely not looking for a project or something to hotrod; just basic transportation on 25 mph streets and on cart paths.
Here’s a thread with a picture or two and a good video about the rear suspension cracks. Note: The NEV reinforcement C-channel pieces are actually steel, not iron as stated in the video.
Talk @AssyRequired into installing 6 new deep cycles and changing charger settings. 1,000 - 1200 dollars and you are good to go. 25 mph, 20 mile range. Won’t be a hotrod but will get you around.
Be aware of those “really good” deals. I fully understand being on a budget, but if I were to bring up an equal analogy that sends chills into almost every experienced boat owner, sometimes that “free boat” can be an really deep money pit.
Can the frame cracks be seen by looking underneath or do the body panels need to be removed to see the damage?
Full inspection is best to involve removing the rear fender assembly aka- the spat. The welds need to be inspected all the way around.
I have a 2002 825e and it’s more than enough for what you need. I just upgraded the charger tho
Thanks @LarryP , I will be sure I upgrade the charger if it still has the original. I definitely want a charger that will do a trickle charge if I leave the car for a week or two.
