The manual I downloaded doesn’t show a finned PWB. How do I get to pin 16 of MH5
Search for the recall install instructions. Iirc, the pinout for the new style converter is in there along with the harness splice info.
Thanks. Big help. I hope the new wiring diagram will help me get further in the troubleshooting sequence. I have to understand why the 72v would show up on both sides of the contactor when it’s not. activated; no “clunk”.
Normal pre-charge. Do you have a failed converter?
What are you trouble shooting? No clunk?
I didn’t get the clunk…got to step 6 “yes”, found 70.9v on B+ controller…it says “replace controller.
They sound pretty confident that’s the problem. There is zero volts on controller lug B-
Also there are 4 wires hanging loose:
two I think went to the buzzer which I think is in the ashtray…
one is a ground with two female spade connectors
and one is reddish and violet with two fem spades like the ground
the last two might be artifacts from the recall
You kind of started in the middle.
Is display on?
B+ on P1 and P2 when key is on?
Minimum for car to run.
Very well could be controller. Some history is always helpful, along with model year, charger, controller, etc.
@Old_Houseboater knows older Gems in and out. He’s more likely to help someone that posts helpful information.
I inherited this problem when I volunteered at a community garden. After I got the mowers working they said, “how about the GEM?” They said it was running intermittent then not at all. It showed -15 at first. I charged a couple batteries separately then was able to get charge and got the green light. Blank BCI display. Never saw -4 when the Master switch was thrown which was the first indication of failure. I started troubleshoot at step 1 after getting the batteries charged.
Got to step 6 yes on 72v on B+….
replace Motor Controller.
I wish I was sure that would fix it.
2002 E825, Schott, recall 2 Sure Power converter, blank display, charged batteries, contactor ok. 70.9vdc on B+ of controller (wrong).
Anything else to check before replacing the Motor Controller?
I find no P1 or P2 on any diagrams.
Can you verify that the car is switching on? Jump the wires on the key switch and see if it acts any different. Does you BDI light up?
Do you get any misc relay clicks when working the key?
Check for power coming out of the DC/DC converter.
P1 and P2 is referring to the first two pins on the motor controller. You need to stick a needle in there and see if you see +72 ref to B-
2002 should be a T2 controller. I have an extra sitting around I could send you if you want to swap just to see if that’s the issue or not.
That said @AssyRequired @Inwo @Old_Houseboater will have more scientific ways to diagnose than throwing parts at it.
Thanks for responding. That would be great. I just thought of something… if the forward reverse switch or the foot pedal is faulty I am not actually past Step 1 of the Drive and power System Troubleshooting Chart A. I will verify this and get back to you.
Email me and ask for FSIP basic trouble shooting step by step instructions for start up of controller install. Its a short cut of points to check when you have a dead cart. Catches about 60% of problems. email@example.com
FSIP basic troubleshooting instructions please.
You have to email me directly
I think it’s the Motor Controller. I don’t know about T2? Mine is a GE 72V 350A CATALOG# IC36458H7R353T1 SERIAL# SH7R0045157P. Notice the “T1” at the end of the catalog number.
Yeah, that’s the T1 controller. You need an adapter / harness for the conversion so your dash display will work. When I did mine, I got it from the dealer. @Inwo might make these for cheaper?
If you want to try one of my t2s, PM me and we can figure something out.
FSIP “remanufactured” the motor controller. Now I need a Schott charger for a 2001 Gem e825 either repaired or ?.
FSIP might be able to do it but they want $100 just to decide.
Schott chargers are obsolete. Replace it, I suggest “Quick Charge” Brand older technology but bullet proof