Hi, first time poster with likely a few separate issues I have discovered on used GEM E2. I am hoping for some help on direction(s) to go for troubleshooting.
-
When I first release parking brake while key is in the “on” position and move foot from brake to accelerator it does not always go; intermittent issue. I wait to hear a relay click and it works. I suspect a relationship between the parking brake being fully off and the relay?
-
A very slow acceleration is jerky. Maybe the accelerator rheostat or something like that?
-
Worst thing: when driving up steep hill in high (20+ % grade), as I speed up the steering jumps from side to side severely. No idea were to start… linkages? Something within the drive motor itself … are those CVs on the sides of the housing where the drive shafts come out?
-
I would love advice on a good repair manual. I am from the Haynes and Name-your-car for Dummies generation
Thanks for reading!
Hey Kasey, Welcome to the group.
First thing I will ask is What year is your car?
-
With Key ON, and brake released, note if you see any error codes on your dash display? (this is year dependent)
Gen1 cars will have a round display. If this is a handbrake issue you might see a -04 when the car does not run.
Gen2 cars will have a square display and you will see a red Brake icon.
In either case, these safety checks must be cleared before the relay will snap and the car to go.
-
This sounds like a sticky brush in your motor, or at least dirty comms. Has this car been sitting unused?
When was the last time this motor was serviced?
What motor is this?
-
20% grade? What is the surface?
This sounds like wheel spin.
What tires are on this car?
-
Manual (also dependent on year of car) - What is your email?
Thanks, AssyRequired, slowboat, gathering info!
Hi, thanks for your patience, life happened!
Year built 7/14/2011
- No error codes
- Yes it was sitting, perhaps it is getting better. I do not know what motor (see plate image). I have no idea as to it’s service record; old Stanford University unit so assume cared for to some extent. I do not know where to take a GEM for service in our area (Monterey, CA) and will likely perform myself as I learn… is there an “Idiots Guide to Gem Repair”
- 20%+ grade either asphalt or concrete pavers. The tires are 165/70R12. Yes, it feels a lot like wheel spin, but also like loose steering linkage or something in the CVs as the car feels like it jumps from side to side
- I haven’t found a manual yet and not sure how to give you my email privately (new to forum)
I will be using this as a trash can hauler (think tow, not carry) up and down a steep driveway complex and around the home and do not need to drive on public roads. I just learned I am unable to go up a gravel 15% grade unless in reverse as well. The GEM feels too light in the front for good traction and I will likely add a tray to the front anyway for a bit of weight. As for tires, the wider profile of my EZgo golf cart tires worked great on the steep slopes and gravel but it is too slow on the steep slopes, even with new batteries. I would love to know where to shop for alternate wide, off-road tires for the GEM and do not mind a smaller rim as speed is not that big of and issue
(will golf cart wheels fit a GEM? 4" bolt pattern or 100mmm?). I will be replacing the little box on the back, too, with a flat tray for more of the functionality I need; a little work truck.
Thanks, and apologies again for the slow response.
Yes golf cart rims work on your gem, there are plenty of choices for off road
I went with 10" rims to improve the ride. This required 2 3/8" spacers to clear the calipers in the front, the wide track improved cornering. which would be handy on hillsides off road. I fit snow chains on the stock GEM rims so I can get around in the winter, easier to change tires/rims, than crawling around on the ground messing with chains…
Here’s some 12" tires & rims 23" tall could rub slightly at the extremes of steering lock
I’ve fit chains on my riding lawnmower that I use to mow the sides/ditch on our driveway too. I made the chains fit a somewhat deflated tire & pumped up after installing, so I didn’t have to use tighteners
I have a ezgo golf cart rear drive, that will get stuck trying to backup in loose or soft terrain
I mounted a clay pigeon rack on the front to keep the frontend on the ground when I loaded the service bed with buckets of rock to repair driveway & culverts
The GEM service bed loaded makes the front light. You can probably add a front rack off the bumper mount if you have one. I like 5 gal buckets, as they are easy to move
here’s a link for manual POLARIS GEM E SERIES SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
Ok, on mine, the hand brake has to be ALL THE WAY down before the 04 code goes out and the car will move. Just one click will lock it out. If the brake handle is down and it won’t go, you will need to check the micro switch located on the bracket under the seat. Small switch attached with two very small / weak / very breakable screws. It will have three wires connected to it. On the bottom there is a piece of spring steel that pushes a button on the switch. With the brake disengaged use your finger to push the lever and button in and out a few times. If you listen carefully, you will hear a click when the button goes in and out. If the button goes in and out and the 04 goes on and off accordingly then the electrical portion is not an issue. At this point hold your index finger on the lever DIRECTLY over the button and GENTLY bend the lever downward slightly so that the hand brake will touch it sooner and thus push the button all the way in and insuring proper contact. OH YEAH! on the end of that piece of spring steel is a small plastic roller that makes contact with the brake lever. If that is broken or gone that will cause your symptom as well because the spring steel lever is not pushing the button in far enough. Bending the lever is a temporary fix. You can get a replacement on Amazon for like six bucks. Note: if you do have to replace the micro switch, make sure you use something like pb blast or liquid wrench or wd 40 and maybe a little heat or you WILL be drilling them out and using nuts and bolts. One more thing… Diagnostic issues on these cars, one of the first questions is whether the symptom is electrical or mechanical. This is why your choice of words is very important when describing the symptom.
Ok, item 2 on your list… you will need a volt/ ohm. Meter. Disconnect the plug and using ohm feature connect. It to the pedal. Note the needle. It will read open . Push the pedal down SLOWLY and the needle will move. SMOOTHLY until it gets to the closed position. I say needle because I use analog, if you have a digital meter, you can still do it, just a little more difficult to interpret smoothly. Whe pushing it down and up several times you see that it is jerky or has a dead spot on the middle somewhere, then that pedal is a problem.
@Cformony
Ok, item 2 on your list… you will need a volt/ ohm. Meter. Disconnect the plug and using ohm feature connect.
This test works on your Gen1 car, but @Kaseycurl has a Gen2 with a different style pedal. It is a little trickier to do an ohm check on that style pedal and results are not very accurate. I don’t even bother with it.
My take on #2 still stands as a sticky brush and/or dirty comms. Especially after his return that this car has been sitting for a while. These cars hate sitting.
@Kaseycurl - Tilt the hood forward and post a few pics of what you have under there. Unless I missed it, I do not see a pic of your motor.
The front wheel drive design of the GEM cars are more for pavement and street. They don’t grip well on offroad. Moving weight up forward is a good idea and will help. So will wider tires.
Your old ezgo was rear wheel drive. By nature it will do better up hills and loose grip situations going forward. You noted that it spun also when backing up hills.
Ok, item 3 on your list. Steering and cv joints are two separate items. Is there a lot of play in your steering? Key off, preferably in your pocket, wheels straight have someone sit in driver’s seat and gently but forceably move steering wheel back and forth. Get on ground in front of car ( this is why your pocket is the best place for the key) and look at and listen to the the linkages. NOTHING should be loose or noisy. If everything is tight and quiet, steering is not an issue. Oh yeah when you get down there, take your grease gun with you and lube all the zirc fittings.
Cv joints… Find a parking lot or somewhere with a hard surface and a lot of turning room. (Mine has the turning radius of a school bus). Drive in a straight line (5 to10 mph) then make a gradual u-turn getting tighter until you are going in a circle. Do this in both directions. If you hear a clicking / klunking sound you have a bad cv joint. Note, if you hear it when turning left, the right hand shaft is the problem. Conversely if you hear clicking while turning right the left one is bad. Any automotive shop that does drive lines and / or mufflers can replace the joints and boots. If everything is quiet and smooth, then cv joints are probably fine.
You have a good point, I’m just trying to figure out if it’s mechanical or electrical and from his choice of wording we are guessing.
Would be interesting to know if he has the same issue while in turf mode as well…
