I hit a bump in the road the other day and got a code 11. Car died but a simple turn of the key and the car was back and running. Now, however, the batteries seem to be draining VERY quickly. A 1/2 mile run and I am seeing a 5% or so drop.
Batteries are three months old.
Connections are solid. Have not tested individual batts yet.
Any connection between 11 code and subsequent drop?
Thanks.
Not sure if the drain is related to the error, it’s possible something is amiss in the pedal. On the older models it’s just a simple TIG welding pedal. If needed, you can find parts here:
https://linemaster.com/product/421/Varior-Potentiometer/09ASAC-5K/
Thanks Java. I clicked on the link and am getting an error. Are you able to access it?
Both links are working for me, tried them from a different browser that I wasn’t logged in on.
you could try googling “Linemaster Switch Corporation 09ASAC-5K” and that would also take you to the page with the pedal.
Excellent, thank you. Glad to hear ti’s just a TIG pedal.
Yeah, there is a great list put together by @GEMmechanic of where most of the parts on these cars came from here:
My 02 is a former maintenance vehicle from a UC operated pubic transit bus line, so it’s kind of beat up in some ways, and well maintained in others. After reading that list, it was nice surprise to find out that most the little stuff that they didn’t fix really isn’t anything specialized or is easily converted.
This is awesome. Thank you.
Here is the switch I used after looking at the part number on the original:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell/v15t16dz200a02-43415398.html
So do y’all think that the drain is due to a faulty switch?
That wouldn’t cause drain. But something causing a drain or false soc, may cause -11.
Thank you for responding, Dave.
After driving around this weekend I noticed a few things:
Paul
Look at my thread on rejuvenating a 2002, you’ll see my link to LED headlights. Draw way less power.
As for the turn signals, you probably have a light out or what I found recently was the 3-wire connector in the battery box under the rear seat was/is badly rotted and I get a bad connection. I’ll be replacing that connector on both sides soon. I have to wiggle the wires to get turn signals working normally on each left/right side. But I had a bulb go out previously and got the same symptom.
Thanks Doug. Been busy enjoying the nice weather and hanging out on the beach so sorry for the late response.
Well, I just went out and checked the bulbs…Turns out the previous owner did a LED conversion on the signals already. I did clean off the connectors. Looking at the signal flasher fuse now.
if you have LED turn signals(front and rear) then you might not have a bulb out but you have too little current flow to trip the relay. They are designed to either not blink or give some indication when a bulb is out and the relay senses that with reduced current flow… you might have to put a resistor across your LED lights so they draw more power. Or maybe there’s another relay setup for the lower power usage.
Oh geez. It was the flasher relay that was out…
Doug,
The new relay lasted for all of five minutes, so I’m going to go with you on the resistor unless I can find a flasher meant for LEDs. Thanks for the help.
Paul
I measured the output and only came up with 8.8 volts in the blinker system.
Since I switched over to LED signals, I’ve been using this one on my 2002 longbed with no problems:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NF_EL12
They also have a “super loud” version. I don’t know the number offhand, but, at least at my local store, it’s on a peg right next to the EL12 and all the other universal flasher modules.
Thanks JR. I will go ahead with that option. I appreciate the response.
Paul