I have an 02 E85, I replaced the batteries June 14, when I went to get it out for spring, it would not charge, the charger made the funny noise it makes when it will not charge. I disconnected the batteries and charged them 1 at a time and they would not fully charge. They would only go to about 60% on my charger. I hooked them back up and the charger on the car seemed to be working. After several hours of charging they only went to 55% on the instrument panel. I tried to ride it, it pulled out and went just a little ways and dropped to 9% and then would not run.
I had the batteries replaced under warranty. 6 brand new ones and now it will not do anything at all. I get error code - 15. I tried to charge it and it will not charge, I am once again getting the funny noise the charger makes when it will not charge.
I dont know what to do next. I know it is lake season and Momma wants her cart fixed.
What brand, type and size of batteries? Was the car stored over the winter in a place that didn’t freeze with the charger engaged? Do the new batteries hold a charge? Did you charge them individually? Which charger is installed? Is it programmed for the type of batteries installed? How long have you owned the GEM? Lots of questions I know but more details are needed.
I have owned it 7 or 8 years.
The batteries I just replaced are the exact ones.O’Reilly’s replaced them under warranty. I have not charged them. I guess I need to charge them individually. They are the correct batteries and size. They are O’Reilly’s house brand.
Ok, I went back and checked and did not have 72 v, so I checked and sure enough I had one hooked up backwards, that’s what you get when you are changing batteries in the Oreilly’s parking lot in a hurry.
so now I have a new issue, if runs but just briefly before it shuts down with error code - 11. It will pick back up and then it does it again.
If you get -11 on initial “key-on” something is holding pedal engaged.
I get it when mat is stuck under pedal.
As you get -11 while running, something is breaking key switch connection with pedal down. (driving)
Such as connection from charger interlock or acc. connection to battery B+.
I was getting the -11 code while moving also. I exchanged the parking brake switch and haven’t had a problem since. I bought generic switches on e bay, 5/$6. I have extra if you need one…just message your address to me and I’ll mail it out.
I went back and checked all my connections and everything was tight. I took it for a spin and it is still doing it. It runs just a few seconds and it quits pulling the - 11 shows back up. I can lift and it does again but not for long.
Getting an occasional code 11 while driving 2003 E825, 4 seater. There are several actions that trigger the error. If I’m driving along at full throttle and turn on the lights, code 11. Flipping the blinker on or off, code 11. Sometimes just driving along, code 11. If I lift the pedal and immediately reapply throttle, it takes right off.
Code 11 occurs when you have your foot on the throttle when you turn on the switch. It also occurs when ever there is a break in the signal from the throttle. Check your throttle switch inside the box, Take the throttle cable connector apart and spray with contact cleaner and put it together a couple of times. Since your getting an event when you turn on your lights do the cleaning bit on the connectors in the lighting circuits as well. I chased an 11 for 2 months on an e825 when starting out. turned out the throttle pot was dirty. I sprayed the heck out of it where the terminals went into the pot and it cured it. Does it happen when you go over a bump? This could cause a momentary signal glitch. code 11s are sometimes hard to pin down.
I took the throttle completely out. Spayed the micro switch and the potentiometer heavily with contact cleaner. Hit the connector assembly with same. I don’t feel like it is the throttle. It doesn’t seem to be affected by bumps. I took the key assembly out and hot wired it (thinking maybe failing key socket), still got an 11 on test drive. I don’t think it is the light switch. My guess is extra load is causing controller to “blink” and restart. Effectively the controller thinks it just got turned on and you have the pedal depressed. Have you seem this?
Those are the symptoms that are common to a code 11. Blink is a GOOD
term. You might be in for a bit of a problem finding the cause until it wont
clear.
December 20
I took the throttle completely out. Spayed the micro switch and the
potentiometer heavily with contact cleaner. Hit the connector assembly with
same. I don’t feel like it is the throttle. It doesn’t seem to be affected by
bumps. I took the key assembly out and hot wired it (thinking maybe failing
key socket), still got an 11 on test drive. I don’t think it is the light
switch. My guess is extra load is causing controller to “blink” and restart.
Effectively the controller thinks it just got turned on and you have the
pedal depressed. Have you seem this?
The problem was the parking brake micro switch. I disconnected the top two wires from the switch and ran a piece of copper wire between them to bypass the switch. Problem stopped immediately. Installed a new switch and hooked everything back up and she runs like a top. Thanks for the help Houseboater!
