Hey I wanted to Share a pic of what a 65 Amp Hr Nissan Leaf battery looks like VS what 120 Amp Hrs of Chevy Spark looks like. This is the 3 battery configuration that I got from David. The batterys are smaller and lighter, but of corse their is 3 of them. The one Nissan Leaf battery was 98 Lbs each one of the Spark batterys is just over 50 Lbs
Fitment and other snafus with cable routing seem to be overcome.
Waiting for mileage report.
Early tests are showing 40 mile range.
I have been consistently doing a 20 mile loop . I’m starting at 4. Volts and after 20+ miles I am at 3.9-3.8 volts
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I sent information on Spark packs in ca.
You should have no trouble selling the other half. If you don’t fall in love with it.
2014 and 2016
Super price for either!
Isn’t it nice not needing to fully charge or discharge. Should last forever.
Yes as far as not needing to re-charge or search for a plug as soon as your done I’m So conditioned to search for a plug as soon as I’m done it so weird to not care if you need to plug in or not
We have a new Leaf and so I researched if it should be fully charged or not and found lots of Tesla posts on how Li batteries are better off NOT fully charged unless the energy is going to be immediately used. Better to keep it above 20% and below 80% and they even had a program selection to charge to a certain level below 100%. Nissan on the other hand just says to charge it all the way to 100% and don’t worry about it. They probably say that because they only have 30KWh battery pack giving 107 freeway miles so they want people to think less of capacity even though we constantly must because of the limited power available.
I’m always looking for the plug after stopping the NEV too and long for the day I put in an Li pack.
I would call it a 50 mile Gem. Charging to 4.15 running down to 3. Level ground at 25mph.
That means a model with a little more battery room could be a 100 mile car.
I’m quite sure my EL has the room. See pics. 44s pack. 2 x 16s and 1 x 12s. Wired as 22s2p
Don’t know where you would find the room in an E4. Ralph has it figured out.
He wants more than 100 miles? Seems silly to me. 40 is plenty.
Grant, I just notice on the picture. Orange and Gn/Y wire left of the frame. My auxiliary Anderson power plug. Connected to batteries.
That’s where I plug in my off board fast charger if I want to top off pack.
fyi, Nissan doesn’t let the leaf fully charge the battery . the batteries are able to charge to 4.2v but Nissan cuts off at 4.07 I believe to increase longevity .
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Thanks @LithiumGods I will keep an eye out for that information. Have not seen it before but would amke sense why they don’t care of we go to 100%. It’s not really 100%.
Hey Doug are you Intrested in selling the other 1/2 of your Volt Pack?
Sorry,
It’s Keith @ProEv has 3 x 16s modules.
Check your pm
See my El picture above. It’s 2 x 16s and a 12s all in one module.
Come apart easily.
That seems a good price. Have him send a picture to see if you can live without the fittings.
This is 2016 Spark 16s
Volt may be different.
I built a punch to punch holes in tab.
Insulate and cover all adjacent tabs to prevent dangerous arc flash and burns.
Not for the faint of heart. Think of brain surgery or defusing a bomb!
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For those who haven’t been following Grants Gem/Spark.
This reconfigures 16s 55ah module. To 8s 110ah module.
Three of them make a 110ah 88 volt battery.
After this part, the fun begins.
Each cell must be connected to it’s mate on each module.
This can be done by testing balance lead voltage. Connecting 0-0, 4-4, 8-8, 12-12, etc.
The 9 wires left are then connected to jst-xh connectors to monitor cell volts.
If preferred, start over. Solder tab to tab to XH with new wires to bms.
Much as is required for Leaf pack. May be less confusing. Copper side of tabs are solderable.
Hey I wanted to report back. Here is a breef history on this 24cell Chevy Spark Pack.
So I bought this pack from David. I had a car with a 20 cell Nissan Leaf pack. The pack went dead.
I took the 20 cell Nissan Leaf pack out and installed a 24 cell Chevy Spark pack. My amp hrs went up from 60 to 80 amp hrs and my voltage jumped up to around 98volts.
This was on a 2013 With a T-4 controller. The car used Dave’s 15volt voltage spoof installed in pin #1 of the 32 pin main connector. That was the only Mod needed to let the car run in a higher voltage mode. I put hundreds of miles on this car and it is/was amazing. The extra voltage provided from the 24 cell pack changed the performance on this car.
I ended up taking this 24 cell pack out of my 2013 and installed it in my 2002 with a T-2, and once again it made the performance on my 2002 awesome. Only down side was we could not get the T-2 controler to accept any voltage about 87 volts that meant you could only charge the battery’s to around 4.0 volts. That’s great for longeventy but your range and performance sufferd just a tad. I could swear the difference between 4.0 volts and 4.2 volts was like 6-8 miles. I never tested it but that was my thought I got extended range with that extra .02 volts. Dave says that the battery’s don’t have that much energy up that high so perhaps I’m wrong but it sure felt like it was better.
I ended up with a 12k 20 cell Chevy Bolt pack. The 20 cells kicked down the voltage so I went from a Hot Rod to a fast sports car. The range is awesome but the speed is down. And when you get a taste of speed and what the car CAN do the slower version is just cutting it. (I’m gonna add 4 cells to my current 20 cell car to make it 24 cell) so I can get my Hot Rod back.
Bottom line if David’s is selling a 24 cell Chevy Bolt pack I would jump on it. I have 2 Chevy Bolt packs right now so I’m good for battery’s for right now.
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Thanks for bringing this thread back. @David_Illingworth is getting an unconfigured set of 16s Spark. Exact set pictured above.
This is how my Bolt is doing. Might be leaving Saturday.
This is the bms that your stacked Bolt battery is wired for.