Check Rear Suspension Frame on '98 - '02 GEMS

I’m parting out a 2002 E825 4-passenger car. When I disassembled the rear suspension frame, I noticed that two welds were completely broken loose. See photo below. This could be dangerous, so please check these welds on your car to make sure they’re intact.


1 Like

This is a very common problem, it’s been well documented here on the Fourm, but Thank You for bringing it up again, I’m sure many people have not seen past threads. The Early cars flexed in this Aera and almost all have cracks or are about to crack. Do a search on rear axel and I’m sure you will find lots of peoples fixes with gussets and brace’s

Thanks Bill. As Grant says, it’s a known issue, but not talked about often enough that everyone knows about it

Btw, those look like they might have been rewelded already at too low a power setting.

Yes, it helps to be reminded of these things. Recently, I was reminded of how my front ball joint grease zerks didn’t take grease when I first tried to grease them. I went out to tackle it again and say my updated front disc brake rubber lines were periodically rubbing on the wheels of the tires and making grooves. Could have been without brakes had I not caught that and I wouldn’t have if not reminded about something else. :slight_smile:

I imagine that vehicle must have been a bit wobbly in the rear end with those outside stabilizers in-op. I’m guessing they were caught on the emergency brake lines so the operator never heard any dragging parts back there. wild.

Had to do mine this winter. Both sides had broke welds.

Add me to the list on my 2000 4 seater.

went to remove the rear shocks to replace them and saw the same crack everyone else has dealt with. Any pointers other than finding a good welder to repair?

I saw these axel re-enforcements on Nevaccessories… but I don’t quite get how they’d install or help if the failure is at the weld. Anyone use these?

The service manual says the bushings aren’t serviceable… is that true?

The NEV part slips over from the rear I believe and then is welded in place to reinforce the joint.

Look at the geometry. Nothing you can do for a permanent weld fix.
With the outside bars disconnected the center point of the middle can twist in the bushing a bit.
That’s good. The outer bars need a way to allow one side to move independently without twisting the axle.


Now you got me thinking. Ball joints alone may cause a sway issue.
Replace the outer control arms with an off road sway bar. Not that expensive if you can find one with long enough torque arms.
I believe that Grant found a custom sway bar place.