Need a Think hotrodder not afraid to jump in and do the work fitting a long motor in a short space.
Impossible? Maybe, but if it were a Gem they would be all over it. Just for the challenge!
Talk to me or @Erniea15 @AssyRequired
1 Like
Newbie with two Thinks as of yesterday neither works very well. Looking to make one as drivable and reliable as I can.
I just so happen to own a machine shop.
Your my huckleberry!
I got the 5kw on my bench today.
Give me a bit to stare at it.
2 Likes
Top picture is the big 8kw motor 14" long. Trans would need to be rotated to fit. Maybe not possible.
Lower is 5kw Gem motor 1.5" long.
Splines are all the same 19.
Hubs come off motors for machining.
I had a ring printed that centers the motor to trans, less drilling.
This is the king 12kw pmac. 1/2 the weight and twice the torque.
Short enough, but the housing and fins would need to be milled for drive shaft clearance. If even possible. A buddy took one apart, but it uses super magnets and is dangerous as heck.
I don’t see that machining clearance in the fin/end bell of the motor would be that hard. Is there enough room to get the clearance needed??
The machining part is easy. I just want to be able to "KNOW’ what components I need to make one of these cars reliable and drivable. The blue one I have is probably a new battery set away but who knows. New gel batteries can really bite into a upgrade budget.
Is there room to offset the motor up and back, making a mounting adapter plate to do so. Then run a belt and pully to the spline. I have not tore into mine yet to see what room is available. This would require removing material for belt clearance in the side of the existing motor mount of the differential.
Thinking outside of the box a little. Owning a machine shop helps
Been done. I’m hoping for something simple that others could follow.
Maybe not, I have not taken a motor apart. The nice thing about the big finned motor is that it’s short and should fit excepting the drive shaft.
If the motor fit, the only other major component is a controller. Motors are $550 and controllers from $550 to $1200.
I will send you a motor that you can measure up and return, up until its destroyed. I will even work with that if you are giving it your best shot.
If there is any way to fit the 8kw,
It’s the way to go we have more that 20 Gems running that motor, and the drivability is getting very good.
The cast end bell is off one here and I can send it to you easily. The splines match but are 1/4" from full engagement. It seem milling 1/4" off the face is a minor issue.
We run it at 9k rpm which is almost double oem motor or the Pmac.
I don’t have a personal interest other than helping Think owners catch up with the Gems.
I’m down to the last 6 motors and thinking now or never with this particular motor.
@AssyRequired is taking on the adapter issue. I’m sure he will share his thoughts.
I agree. First look shows 1/4 off the face is not a big issue. I haven’t taken the casting off the end yet but I could probably compromise and take some off the face and an additional 1/8 in off the inner side of the casting so the whole thing slides onto the motor farther if you feel you need the room.
Using a keen eye and a tape measure(rough look) it looks like there is only 1/4 in more on the splines and things start getting tight. (Want to see pics?)
For flange clearance, I was looking at taking a fly cut out of the motor casting to clear that flange on the trans. This way nothing needs to be done to the transmission. This bite will pretty much take the entire web off all the way to the air vent but I don’t see that as a problem since this will be a compression load on the casting being on the bottom of the motor.
What I find scary is all this weight is hanging off 3 1/4-20 bolts that go through the trans bell housing. The trans casting is only held together by two 5/16? bolts way inboard at the input shaft. I would love to see a brace coming off the frame to help support the cantilevered weight on the floating(far) end of the motor.
I am willing to do whatever it takes. I have equipment large enough both Milling (up to 10 feet) and Turning (50.00 OD)
we could make a whole new end bell if needed. I have wire EDM and could make a splined coupler if needed.
I know there is no money in this I would just like to give a little to receive the knowledge on the electrical side of these. I know just enough to spend too much money.
Superior Roll & Turning
Petersburg, Mi.
What are you saying here? which motor? Looks to me that if something is to be done it should be with the 12Kw motor. Do you have six of that one?
No- I believe he is referring to the 8kw motor.
The only issue we need to check is the length of the unit. It is about 14 inches from the mounting surface.
I need to drive by a parked Think and measure one here but since you have two laying around what do you have from the trans flange to the frame rail?
What would it take to clear it? Rotate the motor? Lift the cart? Class the offending frame as unessential and start cutting? Easy to do if you have access to a full machine shop.
But Dave was looking at putting together more of a bolt in kit that a reasonably skilled garage mechanic could do without much cutting and hacking.
For that, I have the next size down a 5kw ac motor that also looks promising.
1 Like
What is the diameter of the stock motor? Again I have not even looked at mine yet.
I will bring mine to the shop and start looking. One of mine is a pre production unit so not sure what I am going to do with that one.
I have only one or two and a couple that I lost track of. Loaned or sold, I don’t remember if @Troyin909 sent his back or passed it along. There are more available from a dealer but more money.
We don’t have a finely tuned file, but we can make it work. Motenergy tells me 4500rpm max, other dealer says 6500. Either is two slow with Thing gearing.
I have a custom build 6:1 Gem Dana type transmission built specifically to us the high torque pmac. It might be easier to swap transmissions.
We have different goals, but I’ll help with the electrical part of it, what ever you decide.
The me30-3001 is the big brother.
With 52kw and 70hp peak.
The motor is 89% efficient at voltages between 48 to 120 VDC.
- Mounting Face: Mounts to Dana/Spicer differential
- 4 pole motor (8 180 ÂşC neodymium iron boron high quality magnets)
- 20 turns per phase
- Rotor speed: 6000 RPM at 96 V unloaded (6500 RPM Peak)
- Voltage: 0 to 120 VDC input to the control
- Torque constant of 0.15 Nm per Amp
- The inductance phase to phase is 0.05 milli-Henry
- Armature Inertia: 45 kg cm²
- Current: 180 Amps AC continuous (220 Amps DC into the motor control)
- Peak current: 550 Amps AC for 1 minute (650 Amps DC into the motor control)
- Weight: 43 pounds
- Peak Stall Torque: 65 ft lb.
- Cooling: Air cooled (cast aluminum heat sink)
- Includes temperature sensor
88nm
I don’t have a goal yet. Let’s make what you have work.
What I mean is, your goal may be to build a hotrod for yourself.
Where I am researching and recruiting for a solution to the Think small motor issue.
We seem to be on the same page. Let’s see what @AssyRequired comes up with.
Then measure up and let me know if you want the motor end bell. If you are confident, I can send the complete motor about 100 lbs.
If you decide as others have that the big motor is not possible, then I will send something else.
I don’t need a HotRod, but who doesn’t like more power?
2 Likes