I’ve had my 2002 GEM for about a year; continue to be delighted with it, but it’s time for brake reline on one or more wheels. Two questions arise:
Will I need to use OEM shoes, or can I get something equivalent at my local NAPA?
1a. If not, what is the part supply protocol now that Chrysler is out of the picture?
If I just don’t want to mess with it, is there any possibility that my local Big Chain Tire and Brake place can take on the job?
Alright, alright, that’s three questions…
Bill
UPDATE:
Pulled the drum on the suspect wheel. Seems the brake linings are just fine, but the wheel cylinder is seeping–brake drum is well-lubricated! Not sure why that causes the brakes to squeal, but after I cleaned out the residue, they were silenced. Obviously I have a different problem, but still a problem and the questions above are still relevant.
And…here’s another. I notice that although the linings are good, the drum was scored at some earlier time and I should probably have it turned. Can I get that done at my local shop?
You may need both feet just to stop. GEM wheel cylinders are junk. Fortunately, they cost less than $40. I have not found an alternative even after going through hundreds of little boxes at NAPA. Even the rubber seals and springs are unique. The brakes are by an Italian company called Comex. They must have some kind of exclusive marketing agreement (many GEM OEMs do this) that prevents sales to anyone other than the GEM factory.
If the shoes are oil soaked, I soak them with brake cleaner, inspect for damage such as cracks or chunks missing, and then reprofile them with a course file. The inner edge of the shoe never quite lines up with the outer edge of the drum. I’ve actually bought very few new brake shoes working on four GEMs for the past decade. Shops that reline brake shoes seem to be disappearing. Clean the drum as well. I turn GEM drums if they are scored or out of round. Most auto shops won’t bother with a drum this small, but anyone with a small lathe can do it. I have a post covering the procedure. Be sure to check your wheel bearings for noise and play. GEM does not service these, but parts and service are easy to get elsewhere. One of my previous posts gives part numbers and repair procedure.
The alternatives are bleak. Last time we priced brake assemblies, GEM wanted $350 each, so we bought one of each. Front, left rear, and right rear are different. Now we always have a spare for each. Big chain garages don’t want to work on these things. Even some golf car dealers don’t want to be bothered. The closest GEM dealer may be 100 miles away. You can save a lot of time, money, and frustration by doing your own work.
I just changed all 4 of my brake pads. But the back brakes will not work. There is no fluid going to the back brakes. The front brakes work though.genuine volvo parts
Ok, What led you to change the back brakes? Where they worn out? Was there any leakage of brake fluid? You say “brake pads”, but all GEMs use brake shoes on the rear axle. Is there fluid in the master cylinder? Did you bleed the brakes?
[QUOTE=GEMmechanic;9283]You may need both feet just to stop. GEM wheel cylinders are junk. … You can save a lot of time, money, and frustration by doing your own work.
Daniel[/QUOTE]
Thanks, Daniel,
I did replace the cylinder, and as you said, the brake effectiveness has improved significantly. If I brake hard, the right front squeals pretty loudly. I replaced this entire wheel assembly last fall; can’t be worn shoes. Is there a cure?
The shoes will glaze up several times before wearing out. After spraying down with brake cleaner, scuff them up with medium sandpaper. Do the same with the drum. Are you sure it’s the brake squealing and not the tires? GEM hydraulic brakes are not at all adjustable. Often one side will engage before the other. The same is true with the parking brake, as the cable has only one adjustment point.
[QUOTE=GEMmechanic;9370]The shoes will glaze up several times before wearing out. After spraying down with brake cleaner, scuff them up with medium sandpaper. …
Daniel[/QUOTE]
Yup; worked as advertised. Only put a couple miles on the test drive, but completely silent braking so far.
We all know that pushing down on the brake pedal slows a car to a stop. But how does this happen? How does your car transmit the force from your leg to its wheels? How does it multiply the force so that it is enough to stop something as big as a car?
When you depress your brake pedal, your car transmits the force from your foot to its brakes through a fluid. Since the actual brakes require a much greater force than you could apply with your leg, your car must also multiply the force of your foot. It does this in two ways:
The layout of a typical brake system. See more brake pictures.
We all know that pushing down on the brake pedal slows a car to a stop. But how does this happen? How does your car transmit the force from your leg to its wheels? How does it multiply the force so that it is enough to stop something as big as a car?
When you depress your brake pedal, your car transmits the force from your foot to its brakes through a fluid. Since the actual brakes require a much greater force than you could apply with your leg, your car must also multiply the force of your foot. It does this in two ways:
Mechanical advantage (leverage)
Hydraulic force multiplication
Next Up
Braking Guide
How Emergency Brakes Work
How Disc Brakes Work
Brake Type Differences Quiz
The brakes transmit the force to the tires using friction, and the tires transmit that force to the road using friction also. Before we begin our discussion on the components of the brake system, we’ll cover these three principles
???I’m missing something here. Gem brakes just about fall off after you take off the clips on the retainer pins and push the brake pistons inward.
Brake cylinders are cheap on Ebay. Change them out and your good for 10 years.
NOTE: Just loosen the brake line at the brake cylinder. (a half turn is enough.Then remove the cylinder attaching bolts and unscrew yhe cylinder from the brake line. It’s almost impossible to unscrew the brake line from the cylinder with out twisting off the line because its rusted to the fitting nut.
I just took my front brakes off but there is a metal rod literally holding the brake in. Typically you would slide the brakes out but the piece with the bolt screws won’t let you. I had to pry it out almost breaking the small rod holding it in.
You need to tap the brake shoes out ward as far as they will go. The part that slides over the “pin” is a friction device that maintains proper clearance as the brakes wear. It’s also a good idea to push the pistons deep into the brake cylinder.
Remove clips on the retainer pins and slide the shoes off.
Hello guys I have come across a problem with my front brakes. I ended up putting on new front brakes (wow what a pain!) I couldn’t figure out if the short or long spring went on the top. I believe it is the shorter spring. Anyways. I have the full brake assembled with the drum on. A couple things have happened.
The brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and I don’t have any brakes.
Secondonly I have the cart on a lift. When I hit the gas pedal the drum barely moves which isn’t good because the cart has too much friction to move.
Anything will hep here. Let me know if anyone can help me. Thanks!
Thanks so much for helping me out. Ok I taped the crap out of them and they are moving. Thats a good sign. They seem to have quite a bit of friction and stop suddenly but atlas they are moving.
Can you teach me how to bleed the brakes? I didn’t bleed them before and I’m not sure how. I am a quick learner if you could explain. Thanks again!
Buy a bottle of DOT 3 Spec brake fluid. DO NOT buy Synthetic.
You will need a Partner.
Place an oil pan or whatever under the brake to catch spill over.
1 Fill Master Cylinder
2 Loosen bleeder screw and tighten lightly to make sure its free.
3 Have partner pump brake pedal 8 times - check fluid level
4 Holding your finger LIGHTLY over the bleeder open it slightly.
5 Have partner push pedal down slowly and HOLD - tighten bleeder.
6 Have partner leave up on pedal then pump 6 times…Check fluid level
7 Have partner push pedal down slowly and HOLD.Holding your finger LIGHTLY over the bleeder open it slightly while he is pushing down. you should get air and/or fluid, Tighten bleeder.
8 Have partner leave up on pedal. IMPORTANT that partner doesn’t leave up on pedal while bleeder is open.
9 Leaving bleeder tight have partner see if pedal is starting to firm up.
10 Repeat 7 & 8 sequence until you get fluid with no bubbles and pedal doesn’t get any firmer.
11 Do other wheel. Pedal should firm up at top. Sometimes 1st wheel will have to be done over to get a firm pedal.at the top
Before you bleed the brakes take the drums off an drive the shoes in to the center with a hammer and block of wood. Replace the drums. Wheels should turn free.
Lets back up to the beginning. Why did you work on the brakes to start out with? Are the brake cylinders free. They have a tendency to freeze up if not used constantly. Did you install new wheel cylinders?
Nev’s used to have kits but I don’t think they carry them any more. were about $600.
GEM brakes are about as simple as they come. You might consider starting over.
BTW if you had the bottom shoe stop (the metal piece the bottom of the shoes hit against) and retainer off it’s easy to replace it upside down. You might check it.
