BDI is blank, no clunk, 72v is good though

My batteries are charged and the charger is working properly but I have nothing on my BDI and when I turn the key on I get no clunk. When I release the parking brake it makes a continuous beep.
I followed the trouble shooting guide with good voltage all the way up to my motor controller and I think that needs to be replaced. It is expensive and I am new to all this and not completely confident in my diagnosis so I am wondering if anyone has suggestions for other possible problems to check for before I fork out the cash for a new motor controller.

Just an FYI, my contactor doesn’t click until I hit the throttle with my 08 eluded. Everyone says it’s supposed to do it when the parking brake is released. It sounds like you might have an issue with your key switch.

What year is the GEM?

what’s the best way to check the key switch? I can’t remember when the contactor would click on mine haha one of those things I never paid much attention to I guess.

It is a 2002 GEM EL.

Sorry I can’t help with that but hopefully someone else will chime in.

My parking brake interlock switch is disabled on my 02, but, IIRC, the main contactor closes when you release the parking brake.

Then it will open after a delay set on the mars timer next to it, and close again when you hit the accelerator.

The BDI should light up when you first turn the key. Try smacking the key switch after you first turn it on and pull the key out. The push on connections on the Medico locks can get loose.

Or, yeah, it could be a bad controller.

If you need the service manual and wiring diagram send me a pm with your email addres.

Thanks, I got the service manual online. I went through the troubleshooting guide in there and that’s how I reached my current diagnosis. Once I read your description of the main contactor sequence, I remembered that’s how mine was working too.
Do you know a way to test the key switch? Other than the smacking method? haha

Did you get the wiring diagram too? It’s separate from the manual for the 00 - 04.

Take the column apart, disconnect the wires from the switch and jumper the appropriate ones together.

when I check voltage from the hot wire going into the key switch and the B- on the motor controller I get like 4v. I traced the wire back to the PWB and that’s what the voltage is coming out at the wiring harness. I do have good 72v at the pwb and good 12v going to all the accessories. This has to be the root cause right? If the key switch isn’t getting the right voltage then everything downstream from it (like the motor controller) won’t be working properly right?

could I jumper from a 72v source to the load side of the ignition switch and see if it will drive or could I damage other stuff if the pwb isn’t working properly?

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What does your DC-DC converter look like? It’s below the contactor etc. Is it a sealed box or an open board? I know you said it’s testing good, but there is an open recall on the older boards and something with the parking brake.

Run your VIN here:

EDIT: I was was confusing years. See below. Thanks @MikeKC. You should still run the VIN for the converter though, the old ones had issues.

@jrjava - I think on the 02’s and prior the key switch is 72v?
@Inwo - do you remember? I think they we went to a 12v key switch with the T3’s in 2004…


Mike, after looking at the wiring diagram, I believe you are correct. It shows a 72V ground from the key switch on pin 6.

My bad. Sorry about that. Thank you for catching it.

The dc converter is mounted on the pwb but I only know that because I read it in the manual. It is the updated pwb version 2.

I’m not exactly sure which part it is on the pwb. I have no idea what I’m looking at on this thing except for the two 10a fuses

GEMs website shows a recall for GEM AUX BOARD RETROFIT INSTALL with a status of unapplied
And a recall for the ebrake with a status of unknown.
Is the aux board the same as the pwb? And what do these statuses mean?

Now I have an even weirder problem-
My 12v is all of a sudden not working since I was last troubleshooting the cart this morning. I am getting continuity from my 12v supply and ground. Meaning the cart frame and anything metal, but not the B- on the motor control. Foes this make any sense?? Ugh

I don’t know what you are calling the PWM, but the recall is for the DC/DC converter. If you still have open circuit boards under the dash - you need the recall. A dealership will do it for free you just have to get it one.
PS - do the recall, those old board caused a lot fires.

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