2002 GEM e825 Inoperable

GEM Forum
1

Aloha,

I’ve recently acquired a 2002 GEM that is non-running. We purchased new batteries and charged them all individually to 100% (reading 12.8V each) and swapped into the vehicle. Based on some poking around through other threads on this forum, I would expect to hear some type of beeping or lights to indicate that something is happening, I am not seeing/hearing anything.

I’ve done a few basic checks so far:

  • Fuses in the front fuse box all have continuity
  • 75.1V across the motor controller after main switch in the rear is thrown on (which indicates precharge is working, I surmise?)
  • 76.5V across charge controller
  • Main contactor does not engage (what controls this/what is the order of operations for this to happen?)
  • When the kill switch in the rear is thrown on, I momentarily see ‘3199’ followed by ‘0000’ and the bottom left light above the hourglass symbol is lit. Then nothing.
  • There is no indication that the Zivian charge controller is doing anything. I would expect some type of LED feedback for charge status (based on other threads) or some beeping noise, but hear nothing when key is turned on/off or plugged in/unplugged from 120V charge source. Compared to the Zivian manual, there appears to be a rotary switch in the location where the charge status LED should be.
  • When I turn the main key, I hear a small click like a relay somewhere, but am not sure where I should be checking this signal.
  • When I jumper the leads on the Zivian controller to bypass the immobilizer I hear another click like a relay, but nothing happens afterwards.

A few additional thoughts:

  • Where do I check the parking brake switch?
  • How do I check the other switches functionality (road/turtle mode and forward/neutral/reverse)

Does anyone have ideas on how I should proceed with troubleshooting?

Thanks for your help.

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2

Fuses in the front fuse box all have continuity

Ignore this for now. They are all 12v Accessory fuses and not what we are needing right now.

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75.1V across the motor controller after main switch in the rear is thrown on (which indicates precharge is working, I surmise?)

This is a good sign. This is correct.

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76.5V across charge controller

I think you mean charger. But this is also good.

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Main contactor does not engage (what controls this?

This is normal. Contactor will not close until the motor controller goes active, passes through all safety checks, and handbrake dropped.

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When the kill switch in the rear is thrown on, I momentarily see ‘3199’ followed by ‘0000’ and the bottom left light above the hourglass symbol is lit. Then nothing.

This is normal and a good sign. It is always the first thing to watch for when powering up. It means the controller is getting the pre-charge, going into stand-by, and the display is functioning.

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There is no indication that the Zivian charge controller is doing anything.

We will come back to this.

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From your pics, it looks like your car has the DC Converter wiring update. The next step is to manually jump the Key Relay to send power direct to the controller. This bypasses the entire key loop and the Charger interlock.

Over on the Pass side of the car, up on the firewall right around the base of the windshield, find an odd shaped relay with 4 wires. Green, Black, White, and Gray.

12x72 Key Relay
12x72 Key Relay1112×1116 109 KB

Remove the White and Gray wires from their tabs on the relay and connect the wires together. (assuming MainBatSw → ON)

Observe dash display, It should light up.

You may see a code -04. (hand Brake Applied). If yes, then lower the hand brake to clear that error.
The Main Relay should Close with a loud snap.
Press pedal a little bit and the car should move.

Verify what you find and return with your results for more instructions.

1 Like
3

That’s the odometer displayed in a funky reversed order. First set of numbers displayed is thousands-hundreds-tens-ones. Followed by tens of millions-millions-hundreds of thousands-tens of thousands.

So your gem has 3199 miles. 13,199 miles would read 3199 then 0001

1 Like
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They actually thought one of these would actually last that long??

5

Thanks for this, I was able to jump those two wires and it runs! Drove it around the block successfully with no issues.

When trying to plug in the charger now it makes a continuous beeping noise and the red LED on the dashboard blinks.

6

Apparently they were counting on this forum to keep these things alive.

2 Likes
7

The KeyRelay bypass/hotwire was a function test not meant to be a permanent bypass.

Now you can focus on what your key loop is missing. It simply supplies/switches 12v (green wire) to the coil of that relay which connects the W and Gry wires.

Test the relay
Meter the Black and Green wires on that controller relay while cycling key. Expect 12v. If no, meter green wire again using ChassGnd instead of the Black wire as a reference. (looking for a bad ground).

You can double check your findings by running 12v straight to the controller relay. Green wire needs 12v.

You can find unswitched(constant) 12v over on the other square timer/relay on the org wire. Run a jumper from that orange wire to the green wire and see if dash display kicks ON.

Timer Relay
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If Controller relay works with jumper power applied, and you don’t see power on the green wire at KeyON, then take a second look to your key loop, green wire.

Key loop
This sometimes is your charger interlock. I think you said you previously bypassed the charger (red and green wires) up at the charger. (hooked the two wires together and cycled the key switch) with no results? ← Verify (Y/N?)

If this is correct -
Check the Red/g wire for 12v (cycled with the key)[Ref Chassgnd]

If no- Then you need to check the wires going up to the Key switch. (KeySwitch failure is quite common). Sometimes they just fall off the back of the key switch.

One hint is that your Acc might be working at KeyON. They use a second(independent) timer/relay. If yes, then look at that Controller relay.

Sometimes, just removing these connectors and pushing them back on will scrape the connections and make everything new and working again.

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When trying to plug in the charger now it makes a continuous beeping noise and the red LED on the dashboard blinks.

Ok- Observe what color the LED on the dash is blinking?

zivan error codes
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8

The GE motor controller is not unique to the gems. That’s how the program and storage space was set up by the component manufacturer.

1 Like
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Hey @xzen - Where did you go? You are not done yet.
7 days ago you wandered in here looking for help, some tips were offered to narrow down the issue, but it seems you wandered off with the job half done.

Some of us have a very short attention span.

1 Like
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@AssyRequired Haha, sorry to keep you hanging - I appreciate the persistence! I’ve been out of town for work this past week so haven’t been able to continue troubleshooting yet. Hoping to find some time later this week to revisit the relay and key loop.

The battery LED was just blinking red iirc. Also wondering (but maybe this happens after other checks) how do I ensure the charging profile on the Zivian is set to the correct type of battery? We are running 105Ah Group 31M Lead Acids right now.

11

Are the pics of the charger that you included (back up in post 1) from the car you are talking about?

The label shows your charger has been upgraded and the selector should be on setting F. ← Start with that.

The pic you provided shows selector is NOT on F.

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Hello, AssyRequired I too have a 2002 gem cart that is inoperable. I would like to post my issue but I’m new to the forum and unable to post anything yet.

14

Try tapping your “c” key on your keyboard. It is a keyboard shortcut to “Create New Topic”