ANVIL 7.5kw motor like the 8kw Kinetek

Just got an Anvil. May need to replace or have motor looked at. Any recomendations on who works on these ac motors?

Pretty indestructible. I would be very surprised if one burned out.

Its a simple 3 phase motor. No brushes or wound rotor.
What’s it doing?

After riding for more than 6 minutes or so there is a strong burning smell. I have burnt up several rc car motors in my time and this smell exactly the same. The longer we drove there would be a “surging” feel to the cart that got worse with time and throttle response would also be affected from when we started the drive. Pulled motor out and looks OK and doesn’t smell burnt but haven’t opened it either. Car only has 770miles

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On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 10:33 PM, Inwo via Electric Forum > notifications@electricforum.discoursemail.com wrote:

| Inwo
June 13 |

  • | - |

Pretty indestructible. I would be very surprised if one burned out.

Its a simple 3 phase motor. No brushes or wound rotor.
What’s it doing?


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Haven’t inspected the controller yet either. We repair golf carts but never had my hand on Anvil until now so kinda new to me

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On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 10:40 PM, Josh Morgan > jkmorgan323@yahoo.com wrote:

After riding for more than 6 minutes or so there is a strong burning smell. I have burnt up several rc car motors in my time and this smell exactly the same. The longer we drove there would be a “surging” feel to the cart that got worse with time and throttle response would also be affected from when we started the drive. Pulled motor out and looks OK and doesn’t smell burnt but haven’t opened it either. Car only has 770miles

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On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 10:33 PM, Inwo via Electric Forum > > notifications@electricforum.discoursemail.com wrote:

| Inwo
June 13 |

  • | - |

Pretty indestructible. I would be very surprised if one burned out.

Its a simple 3 phase motor. No brushes or wound rotor.
What’s it doing?


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Motor is thermally protected. At worse its controller shutting it down. I dont believe you can overheat the motor unless there is a mechanical issue.
Dragging brakes, bearing etc. Is differential noisy?

I drove my anvil wot 50 steady miles up and down hills. Speeds from 40-50mph and did not overheat motor.

Possible it has a shorted turn. Any industrial motor shop can ring it.

I sold 50 of those Kinetek motor for hotroding gems. We run them up to 9,000rpm 60 mph. No failures yet.

Iirc, Anvil motor is labeled 7.5kw and my motors 8kw. Same motor near as I can tell.

Before you ask, sold out 2 yrs ago. There still may be one or two on the shelf someplace. Price has doubled or trippled over my selling for $550 though.

Should be public

Gotcha, a few times I have turned it on the temp light on dash comes on and I have to turn off and back on again to drive. No noises or anything from rear. Driver front brake does slightly drag but nothing that would cause this issue. Motor is hot to touch but I don’t belive it’s “too” hot.
I’m gonna check the controller area once we get back from vacation.

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On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 10:58 PM, Inwo via Electric Forum > notifications@electricforum.discoursemail.com wrote:

| Inwo
June 13 |

  • | - |

Motor is thermally protected. At worse its controller shutting it down. I dont believe you can overheat the motor unless there is a mechanical issue.
Dragging brakes, bearing etc. Is differential noisy?

I drove my anvil wot 50 steady miles up and down hills. Speeds from 40-50mph and did jot overheat motor.

Possible it has a shorted turn. Any industrial motor shop can ring it.

I sold 50 of those Kinetek motor for hotroding gems. We run them up to 9,000rpm 60 mph. No failures yet.

Iirc, Anvil motor is labeled 7.5kw and my motors 8kw. Same motor near as I can tell.

Before you ask, sold out 2 yrs ago. There still may be one or two on the shelf someplace. Price has doubled or trippled over my selling for $550 though.


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1 Like

Yeh, my guess is controller overheat. Pretty small controller for that motor.
Super heavy car if it has lead in it.

My experience was 150lb lithium battery and two passengers.

Im still trying to give away a pallet of new controllers and sell the programming dongle to someone with the time to figure them out.
@MikeKC

@FUNDAD has a motor for sale.

Can you send the Info on what/where to order parts to do the controller swap for this tomberlin?

Can you send the Info on what/where to order parts to do the controller swap for this tomberlin?

It’s not a simple diy kit and dash function will be lost.

Mike,

Do you still have controllers you want to get rid of.

My anvil just died and I am guessing its the controller based on the error codes.

Also how much for the USB hook up.

Thanks

Bob

We have controllers but they are unprogramed and we don’t have the firmware. Dave has a programming cable but we have been unsuccessful in being able to talk to a controller.

Short answer is not much help…

What are the error codes?

On the plus side, price is going down.
I think the programming cable has value as a rare item. Unless someone can clone it I don’t want to give it away.

I have a half pallet of controllers and a half pallet of bms. Free if someone came and got them, or paid a couple hundred to have me palletize them.

Error codes I am getting is

15mph

1 long 2 short flashes

Pre-charge Failure

Circuitry internal to the controller will pre-charge capacitors internal to the controller. For the main

contactor to pull in, the voltage of these capacitors needs to reach a certain point. Flash code 1- 2

ensures the voltage on the capacitors reaches 2 volts after a very short period of time. If the voltage

does not increase, it most likely is due to a catastrophic failure of the transistors internal to the

controller. Conduct Motor and Controller test – connected, as described at the end of the fault codes.

Also ensure that no auxiliary wiring has been added to the switched side of the main contactor. Any

additional circuit may prevent the caps from charging up in the required time and may cause this fault.

16mph

1 long 3 short flashes

Pre-charge Failure 2

Assuming the previous error code has passed, the capacitor voltage needs to reach approximately 12

volts less than Battery Positive in a certain time period. If it doesn’t flash code 1-3 will occur. Recycling

the key switch may resolve this issue, so is a temporary solution. If there is voltage remaining in the

capacitors it takes less time to reach the tested voltages. With the RUN/TOW switch in the RUN

position, turn the key ON, one should see voltage increase on the Batt+ cable attached at the bottom of

the controller. This voltage should also stay for a long time after the key switch has been turned off.

Rapid voltage reduction after the key switch has been turned off indicates something is draining the

capacitors either external or internal to the controller

How much do you want for the cable ?

What is a BMS.

where are you located ? Or I can pay you to ship them ?

I don’t want to sell the cable till all the parts are gone.
I’m in se mn. 55941

Bms is battery management system. These were from 24s lfp battery. Obsolete to say the least.

Would you sell one of the controllers ?

I really do not need a full pallet right now also if you have a picture of the cable i can try and build one.

I have the software i just need the cable to hook up to the controller.

Thanks

Bob