Another Chevy Volt Lithium thread

This description, and the SuperPower diagram made me realize that the S1 terminal, which I thought had been re used to power a cigarette lighter had to be the problem. Indeed I went out and hooked it up to the S1 terminal, and everything started working again. Lights, wiper motor, etc. I could swear that this was hooked up to the cigarette lighter, and I even labelled it as such, but I must have been mistaken.

Thanks for all your help, as usual. I’m now back to a 100% functional and awesome gem car.

OK, I wanted to get back to the installation, since the last half of this thread has been troubleshooting my BMS, and my 12v system.

I indeed had fried my BMS by placing the disconnect between the two batteries. But by the time I figured this out, I had a bunch of travel I had to do for work, and then I lost interest for a few weeks once I was back. In the meantime, I still wanted to use the car, so I hooked up an old cell phone wall wart trickle charger to bring cell 13 back in line with the rest of the cells. It took a few hours, but worked great. I put a fan on the charger to keep it under 100*

I also had to enable the DQ charger so it would work without the BMS. Per Daves instructions above I jumpered pin 1 to pin 2 on the DQ charger pigtail.

I mounted my shunt using some Anti static UHMW bar stock from McMaster Carr. I used the same UHMW material to make my new battery hold down. I used some cut down 2x4’s to wedge the battery packs into my under seat battery trays.

Getting my BMS repaired was super easy. I just sent it to Dave, and he fixed it for a reasonable price VERY quickly. I contacted the manufacturer in china, and while friendly, they weren’t able to help me directly, and just told me to have Dave do it. Once I got the BMS back, I changed my wiring so the disconnect was on the B+ side, and not in between the two batteries. My batteries are now hooked up like this:

I ended up putting two lead acid batteries up front to help with ride comfort, but man did this thing turn easy without them, so I will likely want to do something about suspension at some point. Even with the extra ballast up front, and normal cargo weight (me, 2 dogs, and a bed full of tools and gear), this thing is FAST. I’ve started keeping it in turf mode so that I’m not peeling out everywhere. I can accelerate up my steep hills no problem.

I still need to mount my BMS display. I had previously run some wire with RJ11 jacks on each end so I could put my display on my dash, but realized it actually uses RJ9 jacks. After that I will consider the lithium install a completed success.

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Why he used rj9 is a mystery. It was my suggestion to design it using rj, but there are no decent rj-9 cables available. Rj-45 would have been ideal.
Evaluating the factory supplied cables find several ohms end to end. Dissecting it shows but a single strand on some.

Where can you get the voltage spoof?

@inwo will sell it to you

So… I went out of the country for a month or so.

Came back to this. Any reason it would say its in “Discharge” mode? That 1.2A draw seems bad for a car just sitting still with everything shut off.

And how F*d are my new batteries? :frowning: I tried turning the BMS off, and then on again, Charger won’t kick on, and start charging… Too low of voltage?

Damaged for sure. 50/50 If not swelled.
If amp draw is real, not good. It should return to zero with a battery lead disconnected.

I would slow charge asap. Use whatever you can find. A 12v trickle charger across sets of four?
If you have the Chargery charger, it can be set to 1 amp.

I had the 1.2 amp draw thing before I left. Restarting the BMS (switch to “EXT”, then back to “Batt”) “fixed it”, and it was OK after that… or so I thought :slight_smile:

OK, So if I need to charge each cell individually, I can’t babysit it like I did in the past with the cell phone charger. I need something I can set and forget. Preferably something not ridiculously expensive (100, 200, or less preferably). Suggestions? I do not have a chargery charger. I have the Delta Q.

argh

Something between 30 and 50v. It won’t take long to get the bottom 16s up to 3v. 48v.
Sooner the better. Meanwhile stop the drain. Disconnect a battery lead a unplug the bms.
I have a dozen things here, but nothing will get there asap.
Nothing I can think of in a normal home. How about 4 12v maintainers? Do you have a harbor freight near you?

image

that difference in discharge voltage is strange . its not your dc to dc converter . is it your bms only pulling power from some of the cells ?

Yes, bms is powered from the first 16 cells.
It’s a tiny amount that is normally only apparent in a dead battery.
It would take a couple months for bms to drain 3.6v to dead.

Using a 12v/2A automotive battery charger spread across 4 cells at a time, I was able to get all cells except one up to 3.3V or higher. I have one cell that won’t go above 2.7V even after 2 or 3 times the length on the charger that the others took. Would using my 5v/2A wall wart cell phone charger hooked up to this single cell help here? (same setup I used before when the BMS drained down a single cell)

Worth a shot. If that doesn’t bring it back nothing will.

Update - I was indeed able to bring this battery pack back by individually charging cells, and the batteries appear to be healthy. However, I continue to have the same problem with the batteries getting drawn down. I’ve decided to give that problem its own thread: