A Grumble about a coasting Rumble from the motor

Update; fingers crossed . . . it might be fixed! After examining the rubber baby buggy bumper inside the splined coupler it was found to be very very flat and skinny. My original motor had a better one so it got swapped into this motor and splines and coupler were ‘assembly lubed’ copiously. After several test drives the vibrations lessened and it seems back to smooth functioning. Again, fingers crossed. I’m sending my old motor over to be rebuilt as a spare and will swap that in, as and if needed. Thanks.

Don’t have a magic magnet (yet). What I’d like is to be able to reprogram the High and Low range switch (in conjunction with a magnet) to run it about 25mph on low and 40 on high. I can dream!

There probably was not a need copious amounts of paste on the coupler. That just makes a bigger mess the next time you are in there. It’s just there from keeping it wearing out any further than it is. It just shouldn’t be assembled together totally dry.

I find it very odd that the vibration seems to be going away the more you drive it now that you have a bigger (newer) bumper installed. Perhaps it is pushing on the armature a bit and it is finding a new home now that the motor bearing is heating up a bit (allowing the armature to float towards the brushes).

This may only be a temp fix. If the coupler is really worn out, the rubber bumper usually gets beat up/worrn out/ground up pretty quick.

What I don’t want to get lost is your observation that the noise you were experiencing seems to be on decel, AND that it went away when you switched off your key(or pressed down on the pedal a bit). This might be worth coming back to later as it might be controller driven as a side effect of regen and not actually an imbalance from RPM.

Where i was going with the MM is that it works by raising the speed limiter level and therefore, when/how much regen kicks in. You could also get rid of regen with programming, but not everyone has a kit to do this.

Good points about refocus back on the symptoms rather than results, AND I run a Mac and don’t have the ‘kit’ to reprogram Regen. One observation of the ‘grumble’ vibration seems to be about 10-20 Hz . . . I’d put it about 15Hz as a guess, if that helps. Will consider your MM suggestion.

There is also no effective way for it to get out.

Too much schmoo in there can also blow the motor bearing just like two bumpers or a dime and a bumper

The magic magnet guy Inwo made me one with wires in addition to the dip switches inside. The wires allow me to switch which will in effect reprogram the high low switch
The magic magnet makes the signal from the encoder skip pulses, which tricks the controller into going faster
The speedo on the dash reflects what what the controller thinks your speed is, not what the actual ground speed is
You can use your phone gps as speedometer

Personal note: I need to use the word schmoo more in conversations.

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In measured terms, I probably used 1 teaspoon of assembly lube to coat the outer, and one to coat the inner surfaces with Schmoo. It didn’t feel like a bottom out . . . hydraulic lock on assembly, AND it’s running great now. Thanks for your concern and suggestions.

I’ve just been checking out the GPS speeds with his 1+3 switch settings. Your gear ratio might be different, as might the tires but here’s what I found. On Low, Dash reads 24 kph and GPS reads 22mph. On high Dash speedo reads 34 kph and GPS reads 31 mph (on closed course with professional driver only, Don’t try this at home!).

Turn switch #1 off. See what that does.

Wait, you used assembly lube and schmoo?


Thats like crossing the streams…

Turned off #1 dip switch (leaving only #3 on) and the indicated speed increased while the actual speed decreased, making the error greater (20%).
I turned all switches on and the speed returned to the previous higher one and the error decreased to about 10%. I’m satisfied with the present settings.

What I’ve found is that by driving in “Low” my speed remains in a mostly legal band while matching the average flow of traffic. Being able to switch to a speed beyond that is sometimes useful but only cautiously used.

Question; Is my current draw less when operating only in the Low range? It seems like my range has increased between each bar and my power decreased (hill climbing) slightly in Low.

That’s a good thing too.