GEM 2012 E2 cart. Quit charging, verified bad charger and sent to (online) rebuilder. Just informed ‘unavailable parts’ and they are returning it. What does this forum recommend next, repair, replace, convert, or adapt? I read there might be a rebuilder here who might help. I have tools and knowledge in this field, but am new to electric carts, so can measure, photograph, and test if you need more info.
Hey GD,
Welcome to the group.
Need a bit more info.
Assuming this is a DQ charger?
- If so → What model? Does it have the Internal DC Converter?
Define “quit charging”? (other than the obvious).
I’m sure you noticed the charger has it’s own status panel. What was it showing?
- was it dark?
- Was it showing a blinking Red Light?
Where did you send it for repair?
Model 922-7200-04B
Yes it has DC/DC converter (that was working, when the charger wasn’t, uncertain if it still works).
Status panel blank. No blinking red light.
Sent to “Lift Parts Warehouse”, now they’re sending it back.
Side-tracked additional info; I got then returned a 912-7200 charger that was supposed to have the DC/DC board. It didn’t, so I returned it. I have a secondary external 72vdc charger that’s working to keep the Gel Deka Batteries charged. Also; I’ve a DC/DC converter (in box) that can be added to get it running if needed. However, my hope of joining this group is to keep the cart stock. Thanks for your reply.
Model 922-7200-04B
Ok- Give me a “Duh”. I see it up there NOW.
Also; I’ve a DC/DC converter (in box)
This would be an option, but sometimes a handful to wire up. Depending on what you have (in box). These cars need a DC Converter with two outputs. First- a constant (always Hot) 12v output, and Second- Switched via 12v keyON return signal.
If you have access to a new DQ-DCI this works best and simplest path of repair.
my hope of joining this group is to keep the cart stock.
Heh, that’s funny. Be warned- This group can be hazardous to your wallet AND your stock cart.
Don’t worry about the ‘Duh’ . . . me too sometimes.
I don’t want to spend $1000 on a DQ-DCI, if I can even find it. My first goal is to find someone here who rebuilds them, as was the case in the old thread where we met. That’s plan #A. I have a connection with a 912-7200 with a DC/DC module that might be available.
Plan #B is to reinstall the box if the DC/DC still works, and charge with an external charger, after getting forum help to show the battery charge toping up. A toggle switch on the interlock cct will flip between 'charge/run"
Plan #C is to remove J4 connector from the wiring harness on that box and use it to connect my DC/DC unit for 12vdc.
Comments and suggestions very much appreciated. Is this the right track?
END
It sounds like you already returned the incorrect charger?
Is your Dead one back yet?
Let’s see if we can source you a rebuilt one fairly cheap.
What zip code are you in?
Plan C → What DC/DC do you have?
Dead one not back yet, may be a week away. 32162 Zip Central FL.
DC/DC is “Pro Chaser DC-DC 72V 60V 48V Volt Voltage to 12V Step Down Voltage Reducer Regulator 360W 30A for Scooters & Bicycles Golf Cart (30A 360W)”. It’s a small package that gives me 2X15Amp legs. Remember . . . it IS plan #C.
Thanks for your ideas.
I have new Dq replacements, with DCI converter $650.
Thanks. I may be a few weeks away from purchasing.
- Is it the model of this thread. Or which model with charging profile #24 loaded/available?
- As LithiumGo(o)ds, later can it be programmed for LiPO4 work?
Its been a long time since I’ve found so much help on a thread like this!
Robin
Would you point me to the topic (or answer this one) that explains where to connect a (external) charger to allow the charging display on the dash to ‘see and show’ the level when charging. I know that the interlock green wire needs to be ‘unplugged’ or shut off for this to show. Is the + connected just before the disconnect breaker, and the - to ground or connected elsewhere? I’m considering installing a secondary port for an external charger (and a cutoff relay on the interlock wire) just in case. Your thoughts?
The Gem charger uses a proprietary plug that DQ made for them. Dq makes the same charger with different cables for others and they will all have different part #'s. Same charger different plugs. I Have a few extra chargers that I sell with lithium conversions, I take the plug off your original charger and put it on the new charger. It drops right in. I have all the algorithms From DQ so the new charger can come with lead, Gel, AGM and Lithium. I have not use ann aftermarket charger and 12v converter. The Gem require a float ground on the 12v converter to isolate it from the main battery neg, they are different. If using just a supplemental charger , hook it up on top of the factory connections.
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As lg said, make sure it’s an isolated model. 5 wire to replace the oem dci converter.
Surpower or such.
Thanks, good answer. Sounds like you’re the right supplier. Is it the connector “J4” to the PDM you describe as the proprietary plug?
Will you want me to ship the core/cables if we I purchase one? What’s the turnaround time?
Is it too much to wonder if the DQ is a weak link in the GEM? Any way to protect it from premature failure? I’m guessing that this is the second charger this year for my (new 2012) cart.
Yes- J4 is the custom plug and the connection point where your 12v DC enters the car from the DQ DC Converter. This is not to be confused with the CHARGER side of the DQ.
The DQ-DCI has another set of wires bundled together(oddly using the same colors but 12ga) This cable is your 72v cable for charging the car but also the supply for the built in DC Converter.
Charging for the 72v pack can go to a couple of points (depending on convenience).
-
B+ (Red Wire from the charger) can go to the Front side of the PSDM marked +72 or sometimes attached to the Bat+ side of the Main Contactor (Not the Controller side). It could also go to the CAR side of the Batt Disconnect if it was convenient. Not the BATT side. You want to disconnect everything when switch moved to the OFF position.
-
The B- (Black wire from the charger) needs to go to the correct side of the shunt for the SOC to see it. It can be attached to the NEG post on the controller or the 72-Gnd post on the PSDM (it’s the same cable going up to the controller).
Be aware that when working with Pack voltages(aka PackV/B+/B-/72v) this is NEVER tied or associated to the Chassis GND. When testing wires or components you need to always reference a B- point with the other leg of your meter.
Chassis GND is for the 12v accessories.
Straight and to the point! Thanks.
I’m using the PSDM terminals + and - for the secondary external charger hookup. The toasted charger should be here Monday. I’ll see if it still makes 12vdc, then adjust plans. Considering Lithium G’s options.
You can send me the charger or cut off the cable and send me that. I put quick connects on them so If you ever have to pull the charger out it is a lot easier.
How much cable do you want? All of it back to the Box, Half, or? Next week or so, let’s discuss shipping, address, time, and price. Would you consider taking the whole thing for examination to see if it is rebuildable? My speciality for help-topics in other forums has been Industrial Sewing (good on golf carts), and pro-video production. Also thanks to you all for sending along great photos of answers (PSDM).
Robin
Please shoot me a link or your contact info to follow up on buying one. That looks like my best course of action. Robin