I agree I have 3 volts, I get it but it actually runs at that.
Bad accelerater?
Why does that stupid serial converter bring the voltage down. Why is the voltage showing on the serial port?
Sorry I just don’t understand how it all works together …
I do know that the cluster and control talk via serial.
I think I know that…I’m grateful for any help. I’m getting desperate.
Are you saying I should be checking the controller with pin 16 vs B-?
I am just reading back through everything so I don’t mess it up again.
P16 and B- are the same, In theory.
3v is below the threshold at 0 throttle. Does it go high when throttle is pressed?
It is frustrating for us is well. It’s important to answer some of the previous questions to keep our interest in helping.
Such as, where did the wrong controller chart come from?
What is supplying pin 3? Car or controller?
Nothing connected to P15? Does it have 12v?
To test controller, carefully connect B+ to P1 only and look for 12v on P15. (dc bus)
You may need two tiny clip leads or female terminals to connect to P1 and P15, possibly P2 also. (key on signal)
Got the files.
Thank you.
I don’t know when I will get time to study them.
It is possible your car is wired for the other controller, but you never answered that question about the source of the other 23 pin chart.
That chart is in the manual I sent you.
Reading… Catching up…
Did something happen? You deleted your pin readings?
They were wrong.
Leads: negative on 16 Positive on 3 Motor controller plug
Reverse 8.22 volts
Turf and drive 20.5 Volts
Off 7.58 volts
same thing with serial device plugged in
Reverse 0.5 volt
Turf and drive 12.5 Volts
Off 0.407 volts
Leads: negative on 16 Positive on 11 Motor controller plug
0 volts key off
87 volts key in Reverse, Turf, and Drive
Leads: Negative on Pin16 Positive on Pin4 Motor controller plug
key off 7.57 volts
Key reverse 8.20 Volts
Key Turf 20.6
Key Drive 20.43
same thing with serial device plugged in
key off .472 volts
Key reverse .676 Volts
Key Turf 12.37 Volts
Key Drive 12.33 Volts
Leads: Negative on Pin16 Positive on Pin5 Motor controller plug
key off 9.23 volts
Key reverse 22.18 Volts
Key Turf 9.43
Key Drive 9.18
same thing with serial device plugged in
key off 1.475 volts
Key reverse 13.18 Volts
Key Turf 1.48 Volts
Key Drive 1.43 Volts
Leads: Negative on Pin16 Positive on Pin6 Motor controller plug
key off 0 volts
Key reverse 0 Volts
Key Turf 0
Key Drive 21.13
same thing with serial device plugged in
key off 0 volts
Key reverse 0 Volts
Key Turf 0 Volts
Key Drive 12.9 Volts
Trying to be methodical this morning.
Pin 15 has 9.23 Volts-No wire on it
Negative lead pin 16 Positive lead into Pin 15 Hole
plug the serial device in and it drops to 1.5 volts
sorry, I don’t know that we have a wrong controller chart. (I have an electrical manual showing the plugs and wires) I also have the Ge controller manual. Ford does not have a wire to Pin 15.
pin 3- I, don’t know how to test that. Car will not turn on without the 23 pin plug into the controller.
I really wish you two could know how grateful I am for the help.
I’m frustrated with myself for making the mistakes I have made.
To test controller, carefully connect B+ to P1 only and look for 12v on P15. (dc bus)
You may need two tiny clip leads or female terminals to connect to P1 and P15, possibly P2 also. (key on signal)
I think what dave was suggesting was to unplug the 23p connector and apply power to p1 directly. Then look for 12 on p15. The problem with doing this is the risk of jittering and crossing two pins with your power or meter probes is quite high. It’s easier to do this kind of thing on a bench and insulated probes.
Do you still have the wires you cut off the spoof? That would work nice. One of them is a female that would slide right on. To do this test you might also need to put 72v to p2 also.
Maybe you can scrounge up an old PC and strip out a few pins/wires from it’s motherboard connects if they are the correct size? put a bit of shrink tube on it just in case.
I can do that probably not today.
I am thinking that I have two controllers here that are acting the exact same way. Which points us to the Cluster side in my mind.
Thinking out loud…not resisting
That is marginal for a good controller. A load on the 5v supply will pull this down. All the outputs are current limited.
These voltages make much more sense than the almost random previous readings.
Even though P15 isn’t used it offers a look at the internal 12v bus.
One of the things I sent is a 23p plug wired to P1 and rs-232 only.
Maybe wait for that to test further.
I have a good local electronic guy that I use to fix power supplies and such on machine tools. Is there any magic inside of these controllers that he couldn’t handle?
I tested the controller I took out yesterday morning.
12.23 Volts on Pin 15 and Pin 3
B- to B- terminal lug on the side of the controller 87V B+ to pin1
Does that answer the controller powering the Cluster?
Pin 15 is good. P3 should be 0.0 volts.