I have only one battery-The 90V lithium pack
With that being said-Bad ground to the Cluster maybe?? The controller was just re-installed, so I am confident in that connection.
I will un-hook the 72V-12V converters tonight and see.
Thanks for the ideas
I found it! With help from this community!
OR/BK wire ground return from the cluster was bad.
Awesome job! Thank you, Thank you!
Just wanted to let you know that your USB converter works very well. I was not able to get the USB to serial to work at all but with your plug I can communicate flawlessly with the D2 controller.
As I put time on this car and needing to charge more often, I am wondering what the best way to charge this lithium battery. I have been turning the discharge off with the app when I park the car. Last night I noticed that with the discharge turned off the BMS will stop the charge and fault the charger. If I leave the discharge turned on, the Charger finishes and maintains?
That got me to wondering if, I get a better charge with the discharge turned on?
Is there a good source of information on lithium batteries and maintenance?
Yes, discharge needs to be on for DQ to start, as it needs to “see” the battery.
You don’t really need to control the BMS at that level. Switching it on and off on a daily level is really not needed unless you are doing it for security purposes.
If that is the case then at least wait until it finishes charging. As you found out it is best to have all 3 FETs ON for this.
Be a little careful on which settings you change in the BMS. It will protect the pack only as far as what it is told to do. We should now go through what is in there to make sure the settings are in the comfortable range.
Post a few screenshots of the first and second tabs so we can help tune your rig.
Just a warning → What I don’t like is that once the App is unlocked there are 4 buttons on the top of the Settings Tab that will load in a different battery type. I find it is real easy to tap on one of them (on accident) and wipe all your custom settings and set a totally different profile. Watch out for accidental taps and flips as you are exploring the App.
As far as a source for Proper Care and Feeding of Lithium there are several Manufacturer Data pages but the guys smarter than me here have come up with numbers a bit more conservative that should make for a longer life for this pack.
Those will work. I usually start off a bit more conservative on the high side.
OVP 4.0
OVPR 3.95
But that is just me.
If you are going to be doing range testing, watch close when you get to the bottom of the scale. See how fast it drops off in the last tenth and monitor how far you can go.
When this thing shuts off it will just kill the car without warning. Hopefully it is not pulling out in front of traffic.
If you set the UVP (bottom end) a little higher (3.4~3.5?) it will shut off earlier you will have a “reserve” to get yourself home if you aren’t watching. It all depends on what kind of range you need from your car.
For range testing you might want to bring a good power cord along so you can plug into a friendly outlet if you get stuck. Maybe even a couple of spare beers in a cooler and you can chat about your car with a neighbor while you load up some amps.
I could use a refresher on adding a 12 wet cell to trick my charger.
I went too long in winter storage and now my charger wont charge my samsung 90V.
I am at 66.5 volts and charger faults.
I had to do this once before after leaving the project sit too long, My memory is not what it used to be.
Do I hook the 12v wet cell negative to the 90V positive or the 12V positive to the 90V negative?
Charger leads? One on the open 12 post and the other on the 90V Post?
It might be easier access to use the B- end of the chain. If you remove the B- off the car downstream from the BMS it has a chance of staying active and not needing a reboot.
Depending on how you installed this pack there will be a bolted connection at the end of the Black wires exiting the BMS and an orange cable coming from the front of the car. On my installs I use the old frame mounted fuse for this connection. This is where you would put the 12v trickster battery. (connector from BMS goes to the +12v (pos) post, then the -12v(neg) post gonnects to the orange cable from the car.
Verify the BMS is still active, verify all FET switches are ON in the app.
Plug in car charger and monitor SDI cell voltages to make sure car is charging.
Keep an ear to the 12v trickster battery to make sure it is not getting too upset.
When SDI cells get above 3.1v you can shut down charger, remove trickster battery and reconnect car direct to the BMS again.
Charger should be OK to finish charging the pack.
Follow?
Report back with progress. Then we will discuss proper shut down procedures for long term storage of this pack.
Do I leave the charger only connected to the 90V?
Whatever I did, I can’t see the BMS on the app now. is that the reboot you are talking about?
Jeff Johnson
Superior Roll & Turning
