I was backing up in the cart and all of a sudden lost power. The cluster is dead and the cart won’t move (forward or reverse). The horn and flashers still work. The main fuse under the seat is fine.
I suspected the switch, but when I turn the switch, I get continuity from the black wire to the others (so I am guessing the switch is fine). Any guidance? How do I test the DC to DC converter?
Well after going through pretty much everything and looking for a loose connection, blown fuse, etc. The problem turned out to be the lower main wire loom connector to the cluster. I have no idea why it wasn’t seated properly, but as I started putting stuff back together I heard a few electrical clicks as I clipped it in, turned the key, and bingo…Obviously I am a bit concerned as I am sure it was in previously, but for now it is working…
On another subject - removing rusted / stripped bolts is a real pain in the a$$.
OK Update - the problem appears to be in the connection from the DC to DC converter to the cluster. I can move the wires and the cart seems to power up, power down, cluster flash , etc. I saw another post where someone posted a picture of a DC to DC converter and someone (I believe Scott) said it was the cheap Chinese one and was problematic.
Can you please advise if this is in fact the problem converter and if so, what do I replace it with and how is it wired differently? Thanks
It is not only the wrong one, but it can be deadly. If you look at the label. it states the black is common for the input and output. The The above converter is a cheap offshore model, and you actually want a higher voltage input rating, and a 13 - 14 Volt DC output.
As far as the dangerous part, the Think battery pack ISOLATED (+ and - NOT connected to the Think chassis, or ‘frame’). The 13 Volt DC negative lead is grounded to the frame (Notable is that just about every motor vehicle sold in North America in the last 50 years is 12 Volt Negative Ground)…
The lightning bolt icon on the cluster is a safety warning that there is voltage present from the battery pack to the frame… A warning for safety).
You do not need a functioning DC/DC converter (but it must not be internally shorted from input to output, though, to power up and drive. That’s what caused the Think that caught fire and burned up, as posted on my website). Not to be unexpected, since hooking up a 72 Volt battery pack to your automobile 12 Volt battery would do the same. A failed DC/DC converter will not have any 12 Volt items operational. The cluster back-light is fed from the converter, so it will not light up, either.
Scott
Electrons In Motion LLC
