I don’t think so or not fully. My 2002 5HP does not have band clamps exposing the brushes and Byron knows this. In hindsight and having got a 66 but it ran for a few days afterwards, I should have taken the motor off and really cleaned it up inside. I knew it was gunky in there and only did a half assed job at cleaning it which could of actually helped make it worst than it was originally.
oh, man. I was worried that might have been for me. I just looked and wasn’t able to find any band clamps or exposed brushes. Do I need to get underneath and/or pull the motor out to see?
Apologies for the confusion. Yes- my last post was directed at Kevin.
Since he has an 05, I guessed he probably has at least a GE5 Long motor in there. I was trying to justify a momentary 66 as a possible overheat issue and maybe he is ok for now.
I’ll start using more @ signs in my formatting.
Cleaning out the motor is probably a good idea.
@Kevin- Can you post a pic of your motor?
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Yeah, good point, even more reason for Kevin to start his own thread.
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Yep - I can start a new thread and post the pics there. Thank you.
I’ve seen early 05’s with short GE’s and 10.35 gearboxes but the dreaded T3 controllers. One individual even posted here recently about it - the e2 in south AZ, where the motor clapped out. GEM played it fast and loose with leftover parts from previous model years it seems.
Started a new post with pictures of motor:
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Are there heavy duty T220 mosfet’s you can install to help with the code 66
Thanks
Mike
*Inwo, do you know if there are any heavy duty 220 MOFSET available. My 2003 E825 has a code 66 so if I am going to open up the controller I may as well put in good heavy duty parts
Thanks
Mike
I don’t. It’s been a while.
Why do you think higher ratings are needed? I think field current is only 20 amps or so.
I think -66 is also a phantom code that is sometimes generated by sticky brushes and dirty comms. There is all sorts of stray RF flying around when big blue flames are visible.
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Hello guys, the error 66 persists and every time I open the controller the mosfets get burned again. Can anyone tell me where the mistake is in isolating some mosfets? I’m sure there’s something wrong in the assembly as I’ve been reading in the post. The only insulation I have is what looks brown.
Controller is FSIP IC3645SR7T405T6 from my GEM POLARIS E4 2012"
Hi again @desarba
Last we heard from you it looked like you were sending the problem controller out for repair(Jun 2022). Did this work out or what happened since then? Has the car run since the repair?
If so,
Was this an immediate power up and it went bang?
or
How long did it run before next -66 error?
How many FETs are blowing? Sometimes you can you tell by the grouping/arrangement.
Are you doing the repairs/swap yourself?
Maybe you are getting the incorrect or cheap parts?
What FETs are you installing? Where are they coming from?
Hello, well, you’re right. Since the last time we talked, the car has been stationary. Some time ago, I bought the mosfets on Amazon, and today I decided to change 4 of them that showed different data compared to the others. I wanted to send the controller to FSIP, but being in Spain, they didn’t accept international shipments I’m leaving a photo of the mosfets and a photo of the ones that were bad. I was looking at the post, and I’m sure they are breaking each time I change them and mount them because it seems to me that I need to isolate some more mosfets.
hi think you need P80NF12 for field mosfet ?
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I don’t know but the pictures is from conreoller’s mosfetd.
Note that there may be at least 3 groupings of FETs and each may have different part numbers depending on their use.
I have never seen a T6 so I am just guessing here.
