Okay, thanks.
I will call them tomorrow.
A lot of work to pull and replace this controller after mailing it out for three weeks!
Fingers crossed.
Iām just saying to see what they say, maybe it is, maybe it isnāt but when they say they rebuilt it, yet it still errors the same, one has to wonder. Did they rebuild it blindly or test the fets before replacing? If they tested the controller prior and diagnosed it, they should be able to tell you what they replaced. Maybe they missed something, Otherwise, Iāve never dealt with an order 66 error so Iām not sure what else to recommend you check,
Although 66 is almost always the field transistors shorted, it needs to be verified. No sense changing them they are ok.
One way to verify, unplug the motor field wires to see if it clears the code. If it does then itās a motor issue.
The field might be shorted.
Hello, I just removed, cleaned, and replaced the motor wires, I am still getting a code 66.
I have had this thing for a month and cannot figure out how to get it going, I have a call in with FSIP regarding the rebuilt T2 controller, hoping they get back to me before the weekend.
This is a simple system, what am I missing?
The fuses look good, I have read another owner rebuilt his T2 controller AND replaced the engine, he is STILL getting an error code 66.
Help pleaseā¦ā¦
When the motor wires were all disconnected I received error code ā000ā, once they were replaced it immediately read -66
I believe what he was saying was to disconnect the 2 field wires (the skinny ones) only from the motor and then see what happens. Make sure they are out of the way and wonāt short on anything.
OK, I just disconnected the two field wires and I get a "000"on my display.
IMO, that may be a motor issue. But donāt know what 000 means.
Ohm out the motor and hope something obvious shows up.
It would help if we could trust FSIP to only repair controller if itās bad.
Low ohms A to A
Low ohms F to F
Inf ohms A to F
Inf ohms housing to A and housing to F
Might they reset odometer to 0?
They probably did, but Odometer typically displays at power off on T2. Two consecutive screens with quick blink in-between. Four digits per screen.
First screen is thousands, next screen is millions.
Ie: 0318 followed by 0000 = 318 miles
0318 followed by 0001 = 10318 miles
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Hey Folks!
I had error code 66 appear on my 05 e4 yesterday after climbing a somewhat steep hill. Turning off the engine and back on (not a master reset) removed the code and got me running again but there was definitely a burnt smell.
It seems like for most folks the 66 was permanent? Is my issue different?
Itās tough to say. High field current is not something that usually pops up as an issue pointing to the motor. Being an 05 means you have a T3 controller. As you probably know they were only used one year. You might want to be thinking about shopping around/upgrading to a T4.
Run it around a bit and donāt go too far. If it does finally go dead on you, try Reverse to see if that works. Rather than backing up the whole way home, reverse the field wires on the top of the controller (just .250 tabs = No tools) and itāll go forwards but at a reduced rate (reverse programming is usually slower). Youāll also be beeping the whole way home.
you might consider reading of my experience with a 66 error code:
Thank you, both!
Iām still a newbie and a lot of the info in dougās thread went over my head, but it seems like the controller definitely needs to be serviced/replaced and there is even a possibility of a motor problem?
I donāt drive more than 0.75 - 1.5 miles between charges. Should I go on a longer run just to test (obviously with the risk of the gem completely shutting down) or are there tests I could run at home?
I do have a voltmeter and know how to get readings. (Probably about the max I could do)
If I do need to replace the controller, is anyone selling one or know where I can buy one?
Two order 66ās in a week.
I have a bad feeling about thisā¦
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Now you are quoting Han Solo?
.
Yes.
You have not experienced Star Wars until you have read the scripts in their original Klingon.
Was there a solar flare I missed? And BTW, I have not even touched Kevinās GEM so it wasnāt me.
Controllers just seem to commit hari kari when near me these days. Yesterday, I swapped out a T2 for a new one and after connecting it all up the new controller turned into a 24V controller! I had to do the unswap and luckily the original has not blown itself up to spite me.
Iām not exactly sure what kills a set of Field FETs, but usually the ones that go are the Armature FETs. Lack of motor service, dirty carbon packed comms, sticky brushes will produce big arcs in the Comms. This noise will eventually take out a controller.
Next time you are in there see if you can get that band clamp off the end, hit it with a blast of compressed air and get a look at your brushes, make sure they are not stuck, take a pic of the deep down innards and see how clean the comms are.
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Was that for me? Between the references to Star Wars and auto mechanical stuff, Iām completely lost.
Would you guys recommend that I wait for someone to sell a T4 controller? Not finding much online.
And what would be the effort to swap out the existing controller? Are there special tools/programming involved?
Yesterday I drove about a mile after fully charging the battery. No signs of issues. I kept the speed between 20 - 24 mph the entire time.
I believe @AssyRequired was speaking to @dougl about the failure on Dougās T2 controller.
@Kevin - I strongly urge you to start a new thread on your 66 error as there are a few errors that are not cut and dry and may have varying reasons, the 66 error being one of them.