My current meter is showing a constant 4.5A drain on the battery when powered off and I was wondering if anyone has seen anything like that? I don’t have a radio connected and there are no lights on.
I measured 150mA through to the controller but that’s nothing compared to the 4.5A.
Any thoughts on what could be draining this?
With that much current, I’d think dc-dc converter, power distribution center, main contactor, Charger or other high voltage component leaking. Maybe chafed, loose wires or connections. That’s a pretty big draw. Was yours the one with the power taken from the timer to feed the 12v fuse block? Maybe somebody switched some wires from factory configuration. Any aftermarket or hacked wiring? If so, that would be my prime suspect
I’ve been thinking it was the DC-DC since that is constantly powered even when the key is off and contactor timer has thrown. I suppose it could be the charger and can check that easy enough by removing the plug.
There are no hacks on this but the things I’ve done so far and that is to put a wireless current/voltage meter on it and recently did a Leaf Gen4 lithium upgrade.
I should get my 3A diodes tomorrow so when I install that I will take another look under the dash for where the power could be leaking from. Maybe even use a thermal imager to see what’s warm.
Ti is a great idea to look for heat. Is your li conversion HV?
Main contactor coil is only 72v and could be going out. I’ll be Installing a resistor to help protect mine under inwo’s advice.
the Li conversion is 22S so max 88V so only above 85V for a short period and should be ok( I hope ). I would not expect the contactor since it pulls 4.5A when everything is turned off. I only see about a 1A increase when the key is turned on.
I would agree. That makes sense. Back to dc-dc converter or charger. Did you unplug charger? That would be easiest test. Verify full disconnect, if still drawing 4.5, not charger IMHO.
I’ll open it up tomorrow AM and start on the search for the drain. First thing while it’s still cool outside and the thermal imager should show something. I’ll also be charging back to 88V to see if the diodes work as those will arrive tomorrow too.
I didn’t see any heat signature on anything but the wireless current sensor module. I disconnected the chaarger and saw no drop and I disconnected the power from the controller and saw a hundred or so milliamps drop. The controller drop validates the accuracy of the current sensor since I had put a DMM on the power to the controller and saw it was .150 A draw with the key off.
Did you ever determine the power drain? I’m experiencing the same . Was it the Dc converter?
it was the wireless current meter itself showing incorrect data. Probably not designed for the rough environment of the GEM and especially the 2002 rough ride.