Charger is not connected to battery in your picture.
One more time. Charger must be plugged into the two wire plug. If fault code blinks low voltage, then measure volts from battery at this plug. Right where it goes into charger. If no battery voltage is present, the charger will not “see” battery.
Usual problem is burned relay and fuse sockets.
Easy fix, and no need to buy new batteries or charger.
Ps. This plug is also a high failure item, and why it needs to be plugged in, for testing connections, from charger to battery.
Thank you for your response. Do you have a trick for replacing relays? Also curious where you get them? I’ve been ordering from Mouser.
Thank you for your help, I’m going to order a few new relays and try this test. Very much appreciated.
Yes, buy a bunch more parts!
I mean, if my relays are all cooked I’m not seeing any other options at this point.
I’m confused. Up around your post 12 of this topic, you said:
I’ve checked every fuse and every relay I can find, they all seem ok.
then down a couple in post 18 you are now saying:
I also feel like I’ve blown every relay in the car, when I pull them apart there is black discoloration around the pins inside the relay.
Feel free to post a pic of all of these relays.
Either your diagnostic skills need some work, or you need to stop exaggerating the status of the car. Your pendulum needs to swing the other way and be more accurate with descriptions, unless you really like shotgunning parts needlessly.
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No, try this test, THEN order a new relay.
Thanks man. I totally got this…
Thank you, I appreciate your help and guidance.
Thank you, in the process of charging batteries and testing, disconnecting and connecting I feel like I’ve done more damage to these relays than good. Sorry if I’m coming across as exaggerating. I’m just eager to this car back up and running. I appreciate all of your help and guidance.
You haven’t damaged anything. But you haven’t helped us to help you. We know these cars and can get it repaired. We just need a dialog where you answer our questions and do the meter tests we request.
It’s not that complicated. Sorry if we are not clear, but we get frustrated wasting time and getting no feedback.
My very first question was, do you have battery voltage at charger? This will tell us right off if charger is bad. Two blinks with voltage at the two wire plug, battery side = bad charger.
No voltage means relay, socket, or 48v charger bad. 48v charger relay and fuses and are “hanging”.
Feel the relay when turning on key. It should click data vaia “morse code.” If not, try it with charger 8 pin unplugged. Bmc reads code from led via plug and sends code to charger by clicking charger relay.
It is rare that relay goes bad. It is only used to program charger when battery type is changed. Safe to jumper it. Test for 48v at one of the heavy wires. No 48v then bad fuse or fuse holder.
You did not burn them up, no worry. Cut the two big wires at burned fuse holder and connect an inline 30 amp fuse.
I tried to avoid a long reply, but you are not cooperating with a dialog. 
Thank you again, I’m going to read this latest post from you very carefully and work through the items you listed. I’m going to be traveling through the weekend and likely won’t get the opportunity to spend any time on this until I return. I’m grateful for your help and patience.
Please see attached picture of the test I believe you are asking me to perform. I will also add that at this point I have no lights or display information when turning the ignition key.
For additional context, batteries are all new, total pack reads 54V, all four relays (two under hood, two under dashboard) have been replaced. See picture of old relays attached.
Yes, the first thing I asked you to test, not to replace relays.
35v may be to low for charger to start. Did charger relay click on during this test?
Is that new? A different issue. Does charger fault? Ie. red led blinking.
ps. I see that it’s two blinks. The internal fuse would normally set a different code. If battery is over the 35v shown, then we need to find the “open” between charger and battery.
2 known things between charger and battery. Relay and 48v hanging fuse. Testing with meter probes across suspect component will read more than 0.0 vdc. Not easy to do without piercing wire insulation.
Just a little personal experience with 2016 charger issue. I believe one of the relays under the hood was a 48v relay and one was 12v. The factory was having my dealer use the same relay for all (I don’t remember which). That wasn’t working out and they eventually made corrections.
Also, isn’t that meter reading 3 1/2 volts?
Or rather almost 0 volts?
Reading almost zero volts.
The charger relay does not click.
The no lights on instrument display is a new issue. When I turn the key I get nothing, no radio, no display data or lights on the instrument cluster.
The charger powers on, seems to initiate a start up cycle and stops with red light still blinking 2 x.