50mph yet? 
…
Yes and I’m happy to report sub 150Amp Draw. The Dash mounted BMS gives great feedback on Amp draw and Re-Gen,
Thank You David for the Sevcon programming schooling. Mikes Laptop is working out great, having a laptop beside you and the ability to make changes real quick is awesome.
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Are we there yet?
What’s next?
Contactor cool down?
If we can get can data to speedometer we’d be golden.
I need to find a new Gem to start over on.
Mike plans on taller gears. Then we can see if you are in the sweet spot. Speed vs torque.
I just went for a ride around the block
I was 1/2 way on my trip and thought I should record it. So I ran it for more like 18-20 miles Dave’s kit has turned this Gem into a legit 2nd Car and not just a glorified cart, you can now drive it on sections of highway that you normally could not. This was just another shake down run but I ran it 48 Mph for a nice long 6 mile section (Rolling hills) and I was able to put my hand and hold it on the motor when I pulled into the garage.
yes the contact was warm when I pulled in back from the ride but Not hot at all.
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Another 25 Miles this morning. It sure helps range to have a Amp Gauge on the dash showing you How much power your pulling out of the pack. With a gauge you can decide “is it worth it” this (Amp Gauge) is the single most useful tool in trying to help you extend range.
Re-Gen
I have never seen Re-Gen #s like I’m. Seeing. I have my re-gen turned up pretty high, I have some very steep hills and I can see Re-Gem as high as 200Amps. This does 2 things #1 saves my brakes and #2 extends my range.
The Ability to soften or (slow the throttle) think of eco mode on any Hybrid car. The throttle is very Porgressive example. The first 1/2 or more of the throttle is very muted or dead. This slows take off and saves you from Jerky take offs. And more importantly it saves you Amps. Sure if you wanna spin the wheels sure! Peddle to the Floor will give you want you want. I think the way Most people decide if their GEM or Golf cart is fast is by How little you touch the throttle and if it rockets away.
Sure your car rockets to 25 Mph and then that’s it! Your done. This kit kicks in and pulls hard all the way up to 45 mph, o and yes it’s got range. I’m still testing the limits. But I think it’s possible to get 40 miles out of this if you watch your High speed up hill pulls and serious amp draws 150+ Amps
The next step would be to create a amp limiting drive mode. If you could limit the amps to 80-100 I think this car would go 50 Miles
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Done!
Connect P9 to B- or the remaining switch terminal. “N”
Go to “H” and select Drive 1.
I have it set to 80% torque and possibly 7000rpm. Just tune it to where you want it.
I may not have D1 and D2 mapped, but I can show you how to look.
D2 is P32 and works the same way.
As long as you’re doing it, add a on-off-on switch to ground either P9 or P32.
I can also connect foot brake to a brake pot or brake switch for 0-100% torque when activated.
I hope you take the time to help tune.
You can set battery amps in local limits. I don’t know the effect.
The throttle can be customized to 3 or 4 points along a curve.
It’s linear now. Several settings if you want to try.
Save your DCF and go crazy. This is one of the things I need help with.
Also LMK if you need more performance, we are still programmed to 350a and can do 550a.
Hoping it’s fine because a 350a controller is 1/2 price.
For Now I don’t see a Need for more Speed/Power It’s got plenty & I’m Happy right now.
I would like to work on programming a Eco or “Turf” mode Where you could switch the car into turf & have a max amp draw of like 90-100 Amps. This way I know I could hold my foot to the floor and I can’t extract that much power out of the pack insuring a long range. This could be helpful for new people driving the car,
Each time I take it out I stretch the cars legs a bit more and see how much further it will go.
I always return with more power then I think I would. So far everything has been great
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Did you read two posts up?
D1 is ready to go. Just ground P9.
So you can make foot brake kick in additional Re-Gen?
I’ll catch up, But D-1 sounds like a great option I can make my own Eco drive mode. On my last ride. I kept a Eye on my Amps and found that you don’t wanna go below 100 Amps, that’s just enough power to get you up the steepest hills and keep you moving with out additional power draw. So for now I would just make a drive program that was a copy of my current drive settings with Amps to only go as high as 100. Dont think I would wanna touch RPMs some of these rolling hills you can take advantage of high speed (three RPM’s) with very little amp draw.
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This was last nights ride. You can see I went 2x as far and climbed 2x as much and came home with the same amount of power in the Bat. It was simply a function of not using a heavy right foot. Was super happy with power consumption. At first I thought this kit was a battery draining monster. But found out additional battery drain is a result of just Hot Rodding around. Yes I can pull 300 Amps going up a steep hill going 33 Mph. But guess what your gonna pay!! You can go up that same hill going 22 pulling only 80 amps. So I have learned that the car has range just as it used to BUT it also has a TURBO mode. so your not giving up any range with this kit. Your only giving yourself the Ability to go faster should you choose.
Good work. Tnx for the help.
Take a look at D1 in DVT or call me. Two minutes to set it up.
It may be near correct now. 80% power. Put a pin in #9 and a quick connect to the B- tab. See if it slows you down.
If no change we just need to map that input.
Yes there are more braking options. Easiest is a switch.
Yea, D1 can be used for easy mode vs. Grant mode… LOL
Ok I’m gonna start getting drive mode #2 going and set up today. After another 25 Miles on it last night. 100 amps (max) is a happy medium.
It’s amazing the diff between 80amps & 100 Amp draw. That 20 extra amps is the difference between crawling & moving at a Acceptable rate. A few times the car was just crawling up a steep hill. Just moving the car from 80 to 100 gets the car off it’s A$$. But keeping a eye on the amp draw is a distraction.
Grants d1 is working. Any ideas on economy mode?
80% torque isn’t cutting it.
I wonder how full torque and slow acceleration will work.
I don’t believe that power can be mapped per drive mode.
I have a Polaris ranger program with high, low, and economy modes.
Maybe copy the economy mode.
I don’t know how to limit current, other than torque.
Local limits, like battery amps, will kill the power, I think.
This was just me driving and keeping an eye on the amps and trying my best to keep them under 150 A. I’m pretty confident I could’ve done 50 miles but I called it a day
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Don’t forget. The 29a fast charger is ready to go.
Why is it sitting on your floor? 
Just like your other j1772, this on needs 12v to work.
We can get it from bms-24t or from gem.
Other than that, plug it in.
I have 6 or so of these new in box, and would like to get my shelf back.
I also have the vehicle pigtail shown. And a few 120v/240v j1772 home stations.
Would you like an inner fender?
I plan to make some in 3 pieces for shipping.
The bottom with both sides kicked up an inch or two.
The side pieces flat sheet with the bend on top.
That 29amp Charger is gonna get put to use real quick. And I was thinking I would leave the Delta Q in the car and use this charger mounted on the wall. So with the chargers 29amps and the Delta Q’s 15 amps that’s 45 amps Total with both chargers going at the same time. That would be much faster to charge up then what I’m dealing with now.