From what I saw the S4 can draw up to 540A for 10 seconds. My batteries will not be able to hold that, thankfully I am in Miami and we have flat roads. I can draw up to 440 Amps for 5 seconds. 300 Amps continuously as an entire pack @ 48V. I have a Victron Battery Monitor that I installed it so that I can measure what are the true limits lol of the battery’s BMS. I can always let off the pedal if I need to to reduce the draw.
Sorry I forgot to answer your question, my goal is to go from 34-35 mph to about 40 mph. I also already upgraded my rims / tires they sit at about 23.5" tall.
300 amps for the 2 p
I know you are still talking about staying with 48v, but remember that the more voltage the less amps are pulled. Most of the conversions we have done are 60v, 80v and 98v conversions.
1 Like
Not sure I need another project, but there may be interest in a simple controller swap at 48 volts.
The only way learn if the gains are worth while is to try it myself.
Mike, i hear you. The only thing is that I already purchased 8 - 12v 100 ah LifePO4 batteries. I am running 2p4s, that is the only reason I can get 300 amps draw continuously. If I do 60v, I would have to run 1p5s then my continuous draw would only be 150 amps. I still win with a 48v system considering the current. The only way i see this as possible is if I run 8s which would be 96v, but then I would have to re-wire the batteries and change my charger.
I agree, I think a simple controller swap @ 48v is the way to go for now…I would ONLY reprogram the top speed limitation. When I am running 34-35 mph (on flat road) I am only drawing about 100 amps at most if that, so there is plenty of room. I seem to be pulling close to 300 amps on acceleration.
What makes it complicated is the need to start over programming. Polaris uses the controller as a slave inverter. The algorithm controlling motor is in the ecm and is can controlled to sevcon.
I need to refresh my memory of what we did for @grantwest .
- Replace oem controller with generic S4 or S6, 48v or 80v.
- I furnish a harness that plugs into throttle. Terminates in two pins that fit in 35p Sevcon connector. Unused p22 and p23
- I furnish two wires connecting F-R switch direct to 35p connector.
Unused p18 and p30 - Add a new wire from 35p-p1 to supply, key switched, B+ to controller. (if needed)
All these mods are easily reversed.
To keep it simple, we are not initially connecting hand brake and charger interlock. Depending where we power sevcon p1 from, they may function as oem.
Many more steps for Grant’s 80v mod. Due to changing charger and dc-dc.
It seems complicated. Sorry, I thought it was a re-programming to the controller, and I simply will change the controller.