My gym will stop running randomly. Have to turn the key off and back on and it’ll start up and go again. It’s logging three codes 520499, 520358, and 520606. Anybody had any idea what these codes could be?
520499 is battery voltage. Does it shows a number after that? Could be 0, 1, 4.
You installed a drop in lithium, right?
It shows 4. Yes. I switched to lithium.
That’s like saying my car has a battery in it.
Were they built to work in a new gem?
I should say I have 51.4 V from the battery. When the problem happens I lose the 12 V to the main solenoid. I have to turn the key off and restart the key to make it go away and start moving again.
4 means voltage below normal.
When does that happen? After a heavy acceleration? Uphill? Under extra load?
An earlier post shows that you installed 2 100ah batteries.
Did the seller tell you that was ok?
@Rosco - Do your batteries have a bluetooth connection?
Use their app and see if one of them is having an issue and shutting down.
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It has happened uphill, downhill and on flat surfaces. It has happened under acceleration and under deceleration.
Try what @AssyRequired suggested. If they don’t have Bluetooth you’ll have to use q voltmeter and see if the internal BMS is tripping
Maybe you should try laps in the pool instead.
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If the whole car randomly shuts down like that I’d take a good look at how the batteries tie into the car.
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I have tried different batteries. They all react the same. When the problem initially started it was the first two times you came to a stop, it was shut off the solenoid you could hear it click off and you could feel the engine breaking not working. But if you stop for a second it would reset itself without turning the key off. The solenoid kick back on and the way you go. Now it clicks off more often and you have to turn the key off and back on to reset it. All connections seem good, and voltage is good when the problem happens. Any other thoughts??
Done. All this checks good. Does anybody have any more information on the codes? I know we have the answer to one code but I wonder what the other two mean.
My experience with a 2002 having an intermittent 72V into the 12V converter would lead me to look there to see if 12V is blinking. Do you have stock headlights and does driving around with the headlights on effect the triggering of the phenomenon? If the 2017 has a 12V battery I would look there looking at wire connections along with more closely looking at the fuses just in case one is cracked/broken internally and is intermittent. There are lots of things feeding into the PDM and controller which are safety type connections from switch in throttle to the switch on the parking brake.
What kind of batteries did you try?
“Condition exists” You have the code causing the issue. (voltage)
Can you try a good battery? The ones you took out for example.
I have a feeling that your batteries are not rated to use, parallel in an ev.
LiFePo4 with internal bms is a clue. I could be wrong, but drop-in lfp have a poor track record in Gems.
Test with each one connected alone. See if one trips more often or if single battery trips more often than two together.
As suggested before, monitor battery while driving. Problem should show up.
I have 3 of the same lithium batteries. When I originally put two of them in I had no issues. The issue slowly started happening, so I swapped out the two batteries and put one lithium battery in it. The exact same manufacture. That did not make a difference.
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I have monitored voltage. 51.4 during failure. Battery still could be the issue. But each has the issue while hooked separately.
Anybody have any access to the other codes??
If you’re getting the same error with the same model, manufacture battery, could be just validating what @inwo and others are suggesting… That the packs weren’t designed to be in an EV. Can you put the wet cells back in and test that way?
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