Intermittent problem. Code 15 flashes then 51 then 11. Just noticed today the top bar on my LED is not lit, so the 15 code could be a 75 if there is such a thing, and the 11 code could be a 71. Clicking sound heard, then car won’t go when accelerator pushed. If we wait a few minutes, and we hear the click again, it means it will work and off we go. Or, it may be working, then we stop to put the brake on, hear a click, and when we go to take the brake off and push the accelerator, it won’t go. I checked the brake fluid and it is full. We already replaced the brake switch under the seat twice, so it’s not that. The dealer in Daphne has no clue. Anybody experience this and what was the fix?
I spotted this post which you might find useful:-
http://www.electricforum.com/cars/neighborhood-vehicles/2486-complete-list-gem-error-codes.html
You have 1 or more bad batteries or a loose/corroded connection. code 11 is jut having your foot on the pedal too quick when you change direction or turn on the switch.
code 15 is very common when battery charge is almost gone. How old are your batteries?
Gem purchased 12/31/08. Original batteries. Dealer checked the batteries when we took it in and all good. No corrosion anywhere on car much less battery terminals. Car stays in garage and has 3259 miles. Will run 18 holes with no problem and could take it for another 18. Goes full 26 mph for as long as I want it too all over our neighborhood. Problem occurs when I stop and want to go again. Doesn’t matter whether I engage parking brake or not. No regular pattern.
I will suggest that you have covered over 15 miles and have been on a steady run for some distance when this occurs. When batteries get old they fall off rapidly as the charge nears depletion. You have gotten your life out of the batteries. Time to renew.
Gel batteries are harder to test than floodeds because you cant test individual cells. The dealer will also test after a charge, not when the charge is near depletion.
Your controller is doing its job and protecting itself. When the voltage dips you get a 15. You then flip the switch and feather foot untill you get home.
Battery indicators are really iffy when you get to the end of a charge. For less than 30 bucks you can get a volt/amp meter on ebay that gives you accurate real time condition.
Rodney
We charged the batteries all night and the dash says they are fully charge. It happens even when there is not any usage at all. If I turn the switch off, engage and disengage the hand brake, move the forward reverse switch back and forth, until I hear the click ( which sound comes from the area of the fuse box), then it will go like nothing happened. As long as I keep driving, no problem. But if I stop, it may or may not work when I try to go again.
The click you here is the main contactor engaging. Hmmm do you get a 15 code every time or do you get no code. If you get a 04 with the brake handle up and you cant make it go away by moving the handle down the brake micro switch is failing or needs adjustment.
If the batteries are fully charged and you get a 15 code every time it’s a mystery.
Never have seen an 04 code. And the 15 comes on only when the darn thing is going to not start. When it starts there is no code at all. I’ve also seen code 51 flash a few times. Mostly it flashes 11, then 15 then nothing.
We put a voltage meter on the 4 batteries under the sink and they were all just under 12V. Can’t figure out how to get the two in the back.
You have to take the cover off.
11.96 volts is 40% state of charge. You shouldn’t run the batteries down past 50% for best life.
I still think you need a new set of batteries.
Yea taking cover off is next but we have to remove the golf bag rack to get it off so not that easy.
Going to put a full charge on it and check the batteries voltage. I think what the chart means is that each of the six batteries has to read 12.7 volts at full charge. If not then we have to get all new batteries? Sounds very expensive.
It is but if you replace with Gels your good for another 7 years.
If it’s an 08 and original batteries, I think you’ve easily gotten about all out of those batteries that you can and I agree w/ Rodney that it’s time for a new set.
IMO the problem with relying on voltage as the go/no go indicator is that a battery may register 12+V after charging but they won’t deliver the amps you need to run the cart and hold a charge. IMO a better test is specific gravity (FLA) or a load tester. I’ve seen batteries read 12.6V immediately after charging but run down to 11V or even 10V in just a couple of hours due to self-discharge with no load. At some point, they simply aren’t able to hold a charge or deliver amps when needed.
New batteries may or may not fix your problem but it’s where I’d start and yes they are expensive but if you’re going to own a GEM, it’s just part of the deal to replace the batteries every so often. How often depends on battery technology used, cart usage, maintenance and quality of the batteries initially.
Al
I was able to talk to a Gem tech over in Brunswick GA named Clayton. He told me to clean the contacts in the ignition switch for a temporary fix and he is sending me a new ignition switch yo install. I did go buy some contact cleaner, removed the switch, sprayed where the wires go into the switch, turned the key several times and then turned everything back on and took it for a spin, stopping multiple times, turning it off and on, engaging the brake etc and voila all better. No more clicking sound of the solenoid at the fuse box except when it is supposed to. Taking it out today for a round of golf to see if we have it fixed before I say for sure it’s gone but looks promising. I will let you know.
Great! Thanks for getting back to the group with a solution that may help others down the road. Not sure why your problem only manifested itself when you stopped but glad to hear you apparently have found the problem and workable solution. That can be frustrating!!
I HAVE heard of an intermittant problem when someone had their GEM key on a heavy keychain w/ lots of keys. Apparently the weight of the keychain on occasion would turn “off” the switch and give them fits. Solution was to replace the ignition lock and/or use a lighter keychain.
Al
Have an 06 Gem E2. Batteries new and voltage at each battery is in the higher 12 volt range, nearly 13 volts (avg 12.7 volts). Load tested god. Have a little over 72 volts going from battery bank. A little more than 12 volts at controller. Turn switch on and display, lights and everything else works fine. Press accelerator pedal and get a click from center pole in solenoid throwing in, but cart will not move, Turn main breaker on and back on and solenoid will click again. Tried the ignition switch by wiring the two wires needed together with a trailer light splice. Still nothing. Any ideas on what it might be or which direction to get? This one is kicking my butt, but it will not win. Forgot, I have installed a new charger and it shows full charge
Generally the main contactor will time out without input from throttle switch. If it drops out, and won’t reengage by pressing throttle., the switch is bad.
Looks like yours is opposite problem. Switch ok but no throttle.
If your batteries average 12.7 volts then your battery pack voltage should be over 76 volts not just over 72 volts.