2014 Gem

Found the bottom half and took a picture of the top.
This is original Chinese app. May be different order.

lto-bms7

24s%20settings

At last. My copy was getting ragged.

default%20settings default%20settings1

Im going to spend some time tonight adjusting some of these parameters. According to your sheets, I need to adjust 3.

I am currently set toā€¦
Current Sensing Range: 300a
Power Starting Current: 15a
Short Circuit Protection Current: 0

Are these setting correct? This is what came per-programmed. Power starting current according to your sheet should be 30a.

Also, I left the BMS on (lcd screen) last night. When I woke up this morning total voltage dropped from 93.4v to 93.0v. Is that normal? Seems like a big dip for letting the BMS run.

Those should be left to original settings. Only change the ones that you understand the need to change.
Mostly the ones relating to voltage and number of cells.

The voltage has little to do with power used. However it might have been balancing. A smart bms does use a non trivial amount of power. All things considered and using my Gem often, I leave my lcd on all the time.

Once set up, lifepo4 may not even need a bms. If it becomes a hobby, you will want to watch and learn what battery is doing. :slight_smile:

Thats what I remember you saying. I going to have to monitor it for a while, do some investigating, maybe something is draining somewhere.

I was talking with Grant, I think he has me convinced to use a magnet instead of programing controllers for speed. Do you have any left?

Yes, I do. $125
Send it back if you donā€™t like it. Easy to move from car to car.

Cell 16 is at 2.40v under load. Swap it out?

Check at battery if you havenā€™t. Sometimes poor connections can make the bms read wrong.
If itā€™s charged and dropping too much under load, yes itā€™s bad. Do you have a spare?

Have 2 spares, swapped it out and balancing now. Will let you know.

#16 is the terminal battery in the front half of the car. Runs to the back with a cable (batteries 17-28). Could that be why it wonā€™t balance properly? I havent ran it so I canā€™t tell it it drops under load.

Iā€™ve swapped out 2 batteries. Both are the same.

Unlikely more than one is bad. You will need a way to charge it to match the others. Or discharge the rest. Balancing is not very effective with lifepo4 because the voltage is always the same empty or full.
A long cable between cells is problematic, as the sense wire canā€™t be on both ends. Even a 1/2v drop is a lot when trying to keep within 20mv.
If it was me, I wouldnā€™t bms balance at all. Just monitor voltages.

The ones I use have no bms. I start them all at dead (bottom balanced).
If charger stops and none are too high, all is good. Makes no difference what terminal voltage is. All will have the same ah in them.

Sounds good, Iā€™ll work on it.

Iā€™ve had similar problems with a 3ā€™ cable between cells. It is near impossible to get voltage drop near zero.
I guess you could only check resting volts. Ignore cell volts under load.
On the bolt battery, I think I ran a heavy balance lead from both points. Donā€™t remember the results.
Worst that could happen is it burns off it the power cable fails. Maybe fuse them to protect the wire or use a fuse-able link.

My biggest problem is weight distribution. Iā€™m almost at the point where Iā€™m going to go all air shocks and move all batteries to the rear of the car. That would eliminate the balance problem. I need to get the car on the scale and see what overall weight is. Once I determine that I can negate all battery balance problems.

With just me in the car the gearbox makes a ton of noise, with me and my wife it quiets down as a regular sound. I put a 4 inch lift on the car so Iā€™m sure thatā€™s a contributing factor.

By the way thank you for all the help this is a huge learning experience.

No problem, my search for a simple upgrade continues. Itā€™s always sumthin.
I think bottom balance with no bms is simplest. But a canā€™t promise long term results. Also working on cascading bms modules, connected only with data lines. See other thread.
Each module connects 4-7 cells.
A 10ā€™ com line may add more trouble than it fixes.

Another solution is a discrete balancer with LCD on each set of 4-8 cells.
I donā€™t remember if I posted that yet.

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I saw that post, looks promising. Let me know if you want me to put together a project box with multiple BMS. Iā€™d be happy to do it for you.

Iā€™m traveling for the whole week but Iā€™m going to leave the batteries to balance, Iā€™m looking to see if more time let them equalize.

Next step is to abandon the generic rockhard shocks and go with Atv shocks. With the weight that I cut from the gel batteries I think there a possibility now.

Next time I send something I can put a single cell charger in the box. It will be helpful if switching cells.

Thank you, but not needed. I have lab power supply, I gave it some power last night, at 3.5v it was taking just over 5 amps.

Hey Dave, spoof goes on wire one on a T5? Nothing different than a t2

Yes, it does. Measure across the spoof to see actual voltage drop to controller sense wire.
Easy to change. I find 15v is pretty good.
It raises top and bottom cutouts.