Bought this cart used recently. Batteries and cables were horribly corroded. Put in 6 new batts and all new cables (to the dash), checked voltage and it was fine. Nothing activates on dash, checked and rechecked. Any idea where to start troubleshooting? I have ordered an owners manual. The golf cart was running when put away, been sitting 2 years.
checked voltage and it was fine.
First- if you really want help, don’t do this. It tells me nothing.
- What was the actual number?
- Where were you checking?
- Do you have the flippy breaker/Disconnect Switch to the ON position? (located at the bottom of the fuse panel)
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The golf cart was running when put away, been sitting 2 years.
According to who? (previous owner?)
Were you actual witness to this?
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Batteries and cables were horribly corroded.
This statement has me concerned.
- Do you have pics?
- Looking around the cart, do you see other signs of unusual rust /corrosion?
- What does the motor look like?
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Do you have the dash panels off/removed? (Upper and lower)
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Do you have a meter? (you will be tasked to probe a few key points)
This oughta be good…
Friend of mine owned it for 5 years, he left the course early one day and didn’t make it back to the house, I pulled it home about 100 yards. Told me it quit on the way back. He passed several months later and it’s been sitting since.
Voltage was 77/78, borrowed a meter. Checked at batteries and at the panel behind dash, both were the same.
Body and chassis are fine, corrosion was batteries and cables.
Thanks.
Trying to figure out how to attach pics
Fuse panel switch is on
Voltage was 76, just checked with a buddy who was helping.
K- it’s always handy to get some background before jumping to a conclusion. Sorry about your friend.
Do you still have the Dash panels removed?
When is the next time you are around the car with time to check out a few things?
Thank you. Yes, dash is still apart. I’m in AZ, I’ll see when my buddy with the meter is free and see if we can connect with you at your convenience.
Wife has us in a couples scramble today so I’m kind of stuck with that deal.
Appreciate your help/knowledge on this
Ok, come back around when you can. I am in CA.
Next time you are around car,
Step 1 - Power Check is always this:
- MainBattSW-ON
- Key-OFF
- HandBrake-Down
– (This should produce a continuous Beep) ← Verify Y/N?
Silence continuous Beep by:
- Handbrake-UP
- KeyON
– Verify Y/N?
Checked on my way out. Switch on, key off, hand break down, no beep
(For when you get back)
Check Fuse13. This is the round fuse far right. It will be a ceramic tubed slow blow fuse so you need to check it with a meter (not visually). If your meter equipped neighbor is not readily available, try this neat phone hack:
Handy Phone hack/borderline witchcraft
Wake your phone and go to some app that responds to a screen touch (simplest one is keypad to unlock).
Hold one end of the fuse with your fingers(metal bit) and gently touch the other end of the fuse (metal bit) on your screen. If the screen picks it up then the fuse is good.
If fuse is good.
Check Fuse10. (bottom row far right. (This fuse powers the Hand Brake safety loop).
If F10 is good, Verify that you have a Red/W wire plugged into the Acc connector S6. (Third one up from the bottom)
If Yes, then check S6 for 12v Continuous. (Ref ChassGnd). (invite your neighbor over and have him bring his meter. Offer him a beer. )
Follow? (or was that too many steps at once?)
Report back with your findings.
Sorry for the delay. Fuses are all good, S6 has a red/w wire, S6 is dead.
One quick question, I pulled that cart about 2 miles, didn’t put it on a trailer. Could that be the cause?
On the PSDM, Remove the connector J4 (see diagram above).
This is the feed from your DC Converter. it will have 5 wires and look like this.
Check for 12v on the Pin3 (R) and Pin6 (Bk) wires.
You can either pin through the insulation (but I hate to molest a perfectly good wire harness) or scrounge up some needles and poke them in the female end of the plug. (I don’t recommend jamming meter probes in there).
Do you see 12vdc on those two wires?
Nawww, That wouldn’t do much. Unless you ran it up to about 60mph. Then there would be other issues.
Couldn’t get 12VDC. Couldn’t get anything consistent.
I’m not sure if it should have been mentioned that These last few tests should have been done with the Main Batt Switch set to ON.
You did this- Yes?
(confirm Y/N?)
Ok, all this testing has all been leading up to what looks like a dead DC Converter. This takes the power from the batteries and converts it down to 12v to run the car systems.
if you follow this J4 harness backwards through the firewall, it will lead you to the yellow and black Delta Q charger. It is mounted under the shelf that holds your Motor controller.
Q- have you done any rewiring, unhooking of things for cleaning under the dash since it was last run? We could check that the Charger is still hooked up. (the DC Converter is built in to the Charger and gets it’s power feed from the batteries through the wires that normally charge the batteries).
Look at the same end the J4 harness comes out of the charger. You will find another cable exiting that side. It will go back to the firewall but split out from a single cable into 4) 12g wires (R, B, W, and G). Find/follow the Red to where it attaches to the PSDM on the Batt+ (+72v) power post. The Black wire usually goes to the NEG post on top of the motor controller.
Verify both of these cables. Confirm (Y/N)?
My buddy asked where you are in CA, we can trailer it to you :), main power switch was on for testing. He’s gone for the night, will check tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.
I am in SoCal, OC.
Where are you guys?
Fort Mohave, (Laughlin/Bullhead)