2010 gem es climbing hills

I just bought a 2010 gem es w only 5000 miles, the vehicle goes 27mph flat surface any serious incline it practically stops yhe batteries were old previous owner jusy put a new motor i put new interstate 155 amp total wet cell still same results and batteries charged go down fast. i live in villages florida and can never get my chrysler dealer on phone. Any suggestions

Do you have a link to the batteries?
Couldn’t find any marked 150ah. Found these 150ah.

What was in it before? If it was anything other than flooded lead acid, you need to verify that they changed the charger to the proper profile for FLAs, otherwise it might not be fully charging the batteries.

I put them in myself guess have to go to dealer whick i hate i replaced motor to

What type of batteries were in there before?

Charger profile is easy to check. Just do a few things as outlined in the document linked below the then sit down next to the left front wheel and look in at the charger hanging upside down above the motor bay. Plug in AC power and count the blinks,

If it’s not the right profile for your batteries, then follow the directions on the sheet to change it. There are some videos on youtube from DQ also that show the process.

Usually throwing money at it, same as going to most dealers, is not going to help.
Answer all the questions on here and do some simple tests.
Are you near @Old_Houseboater maybe?

What model interstate? I wasn’t aware they had a 155 amp deep cycle You said go down fast. What is your range? What type/make/model of batteries did you take out?

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As Inwo suggested, can you post a pic or part no of that battery? I couldn’t find much either. At least anything that looked correct.
Chances are, it sounds like you may have bought the wrong battery. Just because it may say 155Ah on it(a rating of capacity), doesn’t mean it has the required high amp RATE required for EV use.

When did you purchase these? If really new, can you take them back?

And- I echo JrJava with his suggestion to check your profile. Using the wrong one is not good for even a brand new pack.

But- if you are up for a bit of diagnostic/learning,

A good visual representation as to what is happening would be to hook up a voltmeter(hopefully you have one) to your Battery pack(the whole pack aka the B+ and B-, not just one battery) and take it for a spin. Watch the voltage as you are first starting out off fresh charge and as you are driving around, then go find your hill and see how far it drops.

Then hook your meter directly to the the controller. If there is a big difference in the two positions then you need to examine the wires and connections for the restriction. After a drive you could quickly feel all your connections for a hot one. This would be the sign of a loose or dirty connection. Bright and tight is the rule here.

Your '10 should have the 12.44 gears (which is good for the hills) but look for the code sticker on the trans and if it is still there report back with that code so we can check it to see if the PO changed it. If bigger tires were added that would also affect the hill climb ability.