2009 EL DX not moving

Hi, new member here with an issue with two 2009 GEM EL DX vehicles. They were both built on the same day and I believe the serial numbers are 5 or so apart. Several months ago one of the carts quit going in reverse but would still go forward. Then recently our other one started doing the same thing but the opposite, it would go reverse but not forward. Both carts are throwing code 21. Now both carts will not go forward or reverse.

Both carts received new flooded batteries about a year ago and are showing 72 volts on the battery pack. When the key is turned on and emergency brake released it will throw code 21. I have power cycled the master switch to reset it and still the same thing. I read another post about checking the three wires on the emergency brake but these only have 2 wires. Has anyone had this issue or if anyone has a starting point or suggestion please chime in. I can work on things but I don’t have any experience with electric vehicles like this. Thanks for reading my post. Looking forward to hearing from you on this!

Code 21 accelerator is on when key is turned on. Commonly the mat under pedal.

Thanks for the reply, I have downloaded the GE troubleshooting manual and have read about code 21. I thought this may be a common problem as both carts are showing the issue. Is there any troubleshooting as far as resistance on the accelerator pedal? There is no stud pedal as far as I can see. The pedal goes down and springs back normal.

P7 refers to pin #7 of the 23p plug on control.
Measure using B- as common.
I copied and pasted the following from manual.
It seems wrong to me.

Accelerator input is mis-adjusted or
Input voltage at P7 should be less than
4.5 volts after initial key switch closure.
Open wire exists between potentiometer
negative and P8.
Open wire exists between P7 and
potentiometer wiper.

This seems correct. The .9 makes more sense.
Also copied from T4 manual.

Section 2.2.2 Accelerator Volts Hold Off
This feature checks the voltage level at the accelerator input whenever the key switch is activated. If, at start-up, the voltage is greater than 0.9 volts, the control will not operate. This feature assures that the control is calling for low speed operation at start up.

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Cycle the mode (high/low/reverse) switch a few times and see if you get any different response. The switches from that period are a frequent failure item.

update… I received the service manual for this year and model. I followed the troubleshooting diagram. When it gets to the step where it tells you if code is present follow troubleshooting for that item. I went to the accelerator pedal test section and everything tested out fine. I checked it for 3000 ohms with no pedal input. Then watched it go down in resistance smoothly. All seemed well. I checked it at the pedal, then plugged it in and checked it on pins 7 and 9 on the motor controller plug. Then I checked the start switch following the accelerator pedal in the book. With all this being said, I am still getting code 21 on both carts. Any Ideas before I try to find a good service center near Oklahoma city?

What is the voltage on pin 7?
Re-seat the 23p connector if you haven’t.

Voltage at p7 is 4.8 volts. That is with key on brake off using motor control negative wire and pushing test lead through insulation on p7. Any thoughts?

I think the T4 manual might be wrong. I can check mine when I get time.
I might have it backwards. Thinking throttle input went from zero volts slow to 5 volts fast.
If you have help, and wheels jacked for safety, you could see what the range is as you advance throttle.
I’ll edit my post if I learn more.

It is as I thought.
P7 should go from zero to 5v nominal.
As long as it’s under .9v when turning key on it’s ok.
4.8v is wide open.
Pin 8 is neg to throttle. If it is open or throttle pot is bad, throttle sends a “fast” signal to controller.
As this is not safe, it trips an error code and shuts down. IMO

The cart doesn’t move currently. I did measure it pushing the pedal but don’t remember my reading. It either did not move or it went down near zero.

It would be nice to have an operating unit to borrow parts from to eliminate part troubleshooting.

After going through the drive system troubleshooting and everything checking out ok, I have decided to send my motor controller to Ride 4 Fun for a bench test and rebuild if needed. I am trying this on one cart and hoping it fixes it then I will send in the other controller when done.

If this doesn’t fix it, I am out of things to try and will take to a shop about an hour away from me.

I will update with info when I know something. Thanks to everyone who has helped with this.

I would try replacing accelerator pedal . its not uncommon to have one fail, easy fix and not that expensive

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I agree, test showed it was not the controller. Throwing money at it is not the answer.
I thought from his test he had it figured out.
High throttle voltage from pedal!