Interesting. I suppose when I get my charger limitation resolved I will want to walk my voltage up a tenth volt at a time until I hit the the no-go zone. That way I don’t end up with an overcharged battery I can’t figure out how to drain.
I can tell you after only a week into this project that it is worth all the hassles encountered. My car runs amazing. It’s the envy of all my neighbors 
So we just installed four Volt 24v batteries in a 2002 with a January built T2 controller. DQ Charger set to 177 (which I think is 98.5v at full charge). We are running Dave’s -15v spoof. It is running like a champ, we have run the hell out of it for two days now and had no errors. As grant suggested we just roll into the throttle and before we know it we are doing 38mph.
@grantwest - This is the one I spoke to you on the phone about on Friday. Seems like the same config, wonder way that 2002 does not like 98V and ours is having no issues. (that is with the -15v spoof).
@Inwo
Can the DQ 177 profile be reset to 96V instead of 98.5? I agree that 98 everytime could be hard on the batt’s. 96 would be plenty for us. I know you can use a BMS to do that, but as you know, we blew ours up. Opps
Next one down is #135 93.4v. Only 3.9 volts. Ok if you get enough range.
That’s what the bms does. (did)
You can set to turn charger off at 3.98, 4.13. Different each time from the keypad.
If budget is an issue, I can get you a bluetooth bms to control charger and balance. No lcd no load through it.
I have 10pcs coming in for a customer wed. He might part with one.
$150
That’s a very good question?
My 2002 Orignal has a T-1 and then it was converted to run a T-2. If you say your running 98v and your car starts and runs that’s strange. I wonder in my voltage spoof is diffrent voltage then yours???
I will put a meter on the batt’s tonight after a full charge and make sure I am not wrong. Dave said he set it to profile 177 but i have never checked it manually. Should be 98.5ish.
I am using a 15 volt drop spoof.
So, T1 and runs at over 96v?
Grant you need the T1 back?
MikeKC has the DQ set to 177 -per you Dave.
I would like the 177 profile to only charge to 96v/97v just for battery longevity.
The next step down is pretty low.
Try it if you like, #135 is in the charger.
So you have full charged?
That is extremely risky without bms. Check each cell, I’ll bet at least one is in the red zone.
Yes, I’m one of those bms guys. 
Gem with Volt batteries picture.
I’ve used these to control DQ chargers.
Set from 1-100 volts.
That pic just made my stomach sick! I’ve been thinking a lot about just that. Before I hooked up the BMS yesterday, I was running out and checking my voltage constantly.
OK all - scratch that - just checked after a full day of charging.
GEM is at 98.5 - we are getting the 77 error now.
Can we program a Lipo profile to a lower voltage? We have a 15 volt drop spoof in and still has 77 error.
I think 95/96 would be perfect.
We have all the lights on and we are going to check it every 5 min until we stop getting the 77 error and report back the voltage.
Sorry about the picture. Bad taste.
I think Grant know whose car it was. No one knows what happened.
Great, Grant won’t have time until Thur.
It will be a big help to know what voltage T1 is set for.
The book says 96v.
This is a check of regen direct to battery. I don’t know a way to fool it without getting inside controller.
Well we got down to 95 last night and still the 77 error. It is hard to bring the voltage down with headlights and a fan. LOL
I know that it worked in the 88 - 90 volt range. When first put the battery’s in the car they were at 88 and everything worked. We put in the charger (after blowing up the BMS) and charged for “awhile” and then ran again. So, something between 90 and 95 is the magic number.
PS- This is a T-2 Controller.
Dave,
What is the procedure to set the DQ to #135? We can do that until we figure something else out.
Thx,
Mike
What profile (algorithm) number is #135? I don’t have to do the four second thing 135 times do I?
